Lightning Cracks stands as a compelling trad route etched into the rugged granite faces of Milky Way Wall, positioned on the remote Shuteye Ridge within California's Southern Sierra. This three-pitch climb offers a blend of technical crack climbing and delicate face moves that demand both precision and confidence. From the base, the route challenges you to initiate on a thin face peppered with bolts, quickly transitioning into a crack and ramp system that tests gear placements and route-finding skills. The first pitch, rated 5.10a, presents a demanding start requiring finger locks and body tension on knobs and flakes while carefully managing protection opportunities. The subtle traverse left from the ledge is crucial—missing the bolt here adds unnecessary difficulty and risk.

Following the lead, the second pitch eases to a moderate 5.5 to 5.9, allowing a breather while still requiring technique on slabby knobs and occasional slings. It’s a modern classic pitch that rewards precise footwork and careful navigation around ledges to reach the comfortable belay station. Pitches three concludes the climb with a straightforward 5. easy finish above summit blocks, marked by gear belays and vast views stretching across the Sierra landscape.

This route thrives in a quiet wilderness setting where granite walls thrust sharply upward, creating a realm where light and shadow play over cracks angling skyward. The rock’s texture offers confident friction, but runners must be mindful to choose medium-sized cams and slings for adequate protection, especially on the thin face sections where fixed bolts are sparse. Unlike sport climbs, this trad route asks for solid rack management and a readiness to adapt placements as the cracks shift dimension and character.

To approach Lightning Cracks, expect a moderate trail hike through mixed forest and granite slabs typical of Shuteye Ridge, with GPS coordinates around 37.32637 latitude and -119.40835 longitude marking the access point. It’s best to start early in the day to catch reliable morning light, as the wall faces east and warms quickly, making for ideal friction conditions but increasing heat exposure late afternoon. Hydration and sturdy shoes that balance grip with comfort will make a significant difference on the approach and during the delicate face climbing.

In terms of safety, climbers should watch for loose blocks near the start and verify bolt integrity before committing to clipping. The crux moves on pitch one and the precise traversing demand focused attention, especially in less-than-ideal weather, as granite wetness can turn the holds slick. Descending the route involves a walk-off down to the base of the wall, but awareness of loose scree sections is key—feet stay light, and patience on the decline ensures a safe ending.

Lightening Cracks is a climb that balances adventure and skill—its exposed granite, crack work, and face climbing offer a memorable experience for trad leaders looking to blend technical challenges with Sierra’s wild beauty. It invites preparation, respect, and careful reading of the route, making this a worthy addition to any climber’s Southern California tick list.