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Lightning Bolt Cracks at Devil's Slide: A Crisp Trad Climb in Colorado Springs

Colorado Springs, Colorado United States
hand crack
short trad
single pitch
colorado
old stage road
accessible
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lightning Bolt Cracks
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lightning Bolt Cracks delivers a compact trad climb with satisfying hand jams and dynamic crack transitions on the upper cliffs of Devil's Slide. Just minutes from Colorado Springs, this accessible route blends technical moves with straightforward protection, perfect for climbers sharpening their crack skills."

Lightning Bolt Cracks at Devil's Slide: A Crisp Trad Climb in Colorado Springs

Lightning Bolt Cracks offers a brief yet satisfying trad climb on the right-most section of the upper cliff at Devil's Slide, just off the Old Stage Road near Colorado Springs. This 60-foot route invites climbers with a mostly hand-sized crack that challenges your technique with a smooth transition between parallel cracks midway through the pitch. Though the approach appears exposed at first glance, careful protection is easily established behind a sturdy flake guarding the base, easing any early nerves. The climb culminates atop a small pinnacle, equipped with a fixed sling and a couple of quickdraws to facilitate a safe descent.

The landscape surrounding Devil's Slide carries a rugged charm, with rock faces stretching steep against the Colorado sky and the faint hum of the nearby roadway grounding the experience. The climb exposes you to gripping hand jams and delicate footwork, placing subtle demands on focus and gear placement. The rock’s texture feels solid but requires attention while maneuvering from one crack to another, where body positioning and balance come into full play.

For climbers new to traditional routes or those seeking a fast yet engaging outing close to town, Lightning Bolt Cracks is a perfect match. Its modest length and moderate 5.9 rating present a manageable challenge, allowing for quick ascents without sacrificing the thrill of crack climbing. The proximity to the road means approach time is minimal, yet the route delivers enough exposure and movement to feel like a proper adventure.

Gear-wise, a standard rack of cams and nuts covers the protection needs, focusing on smaller to medium sizes to fit the crack’s width and protect the runout sections. The gear placements near the base are critical to maintaining confidence early on, but after settling in, gear opportunities become more abundant. Topping out means careful transition to the slung pinnacle, where anchors await your arrival safely.

Weather in the Colorado Springs area can shift quickly during spring and fall, so early morning to mid-afternoon climbs in dry conditions are ideal to keep friction high and the rock warm but not too hot. Footwear with reliable edging and comfortable hand protection will make jamming easier and less abrasive.

Approaching the climb is straightforward: the accessible trail from Old Stage Road requires about 10 minutes on easy terrain peppered with loose gravel and low scrub brush. The route’s visibility from the road means you can plan your timing with ease and adjust to crowd conditions, as the area sees its share of climbers on weekends.

Lightning Bolt Cracks is a rewarding introduction to traditional crack climbing in a setting that feels remote but remains conveniently close to urban comforts. It strikes a balance between spirited movement and practical safety, making it a solid choice for a quick morning climb or a focused skills session.

Climber Safety

Protection near the start can appear sparse but careful gear placement behind the flake is essential. The top pinnacle’s fixed sling should be checked before use. Watch for loose rock around the base and descend with caution due to exposure.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach via Old Stage Road for a quick 10-minute walk on easy terrain.

Bring cams sized for hand to fist cracks; nuts complement protection nicely.

Plan climbs for mid-morning to early afternoon to avoid heat on the rock.

Use gloves or tape for comfortable hand jams, especially if skin sensitivity is a concern.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:This 5.9 grade feels true to the style with a moderate challenge focusing on crack technique rather than sheer physical difficulty. While not overly stiff, the climb rewards precise jams and body positioning, particularly during the crack transition. Compared to nearby Devil's Slide routes, Lightning Bolt offers a gentler introduction to trad crack climbing, approachable yet engaging.

Gear Requirements

Requires a full trad rack with cams and nuts, focusing on small to medium sizes. Protection starts behind a protective flake at the base and continues up through the hand crack. Anchor sling and biners are fixed at the top for easy bail.

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Tags

hand crack
short trad
single pitch
colorado
old stage road
accessible