Adventure Collective

Crack Climbing at Den of Thieves: Approach and Adventure Above Colorado Springs

Colorado Springs, Colorado
crack climbing
single pitch
morning shade
trad
Colorado
technical
good gear
Length: 40-55 feet ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Pikes Peak region public lands
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Den of Thieves is a high-altitude crack climbing wall near Colorado Springs offering gear-eating climbs in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. With smooth cracks, a short and scenic approach, and reliable morning shade, this crag is a go-to for trad climbers seeking technical routes and a wild, yet accessible, mountain setting."

Crack Climbing at Den of Thieves: Approach and Adventure Above Colorado Springs

High above the convergence of Old Stage Road and Gold Camp Road, Den of Thieves stands as a crack climber’s stronghold, quietly humming with energy as the morning sun begins to break over the ramparts of Southern Colorado. Set at an elevation of 9,130 feet, and just a short hike from the trailhead, this cliff rewards those who pursue technical crack climbing with both solitude and sweeping exposure. If you enjoy placing gear and savor the challenge of sustained, smooth-sided cracks, Den of Thieves offers a collection of climbs in the 5.10b to 5.12 range that will keep even advanced climbers on their toes, but it remains approachable enough for those making the leap into double-digit trad.

Den of Thieves is a compact wall—high enough to demand respect but manageable as a day’s objective. The routes here are predominately traditional, with the wall’s clean cut lines taking gear exceptionally well. From the base, you’re greeted by tidy, smooth-sided cracks that invite commitment and concentration. The most popular testpieces, like It Takes a Thief (5.10b) and Thick as Thieves (5.10d), have cemented their reputations for quality, blending thoughtful placements with sequences that flow naturally if you’re steady on your feet and creative with your jams. These climbs are known for being honest—challenging without sandbagging, and not likely to hand out soft grades. Expect to earn every move, but also to walk away feeling that the grades are fair and satisfying.

What truly sets Den of Thieves apart is its combination of convenience and ambience. The approach is short but venturesome. After parking at the busy lot shared with mountain bikers (GPS: 38.737461, -104.911507), you’ll stride east on Gold Camp Road, flanked by lingering pine shade, and pass beneath historic tunnel 7. As you turn south, the terrain rises—the air crisp, the path lined by cairns that soon guide you up a forested hillside. Take a moment to savor the transition: within just 10 minutes and a mere 0.12 miles (gaining 125 feet of elevation), you’ll have left the hustle of the parking lot for the quiet persistence of granite. Keep an eye out for the gash in the rock—there, Den of Thieves’ imposing face and the promise of adventure await.

Morning sessions here are especially rewarding. The wall basks in morning shade, preserving friction for your first jams and foot placements. By afternoon, the sun creeps in, making summer mornings prime for sending. Top access is straightforward, offering the option to build toprope anchors using a short static cord—valuable for those pushing grades or seeking repetition on specific lines. Experienced climbers often toprope solo these routes, capitalizing on the easy cliff top.

Den of Thieves appeals most to those craving high-quality, gear-protected climbs. The rock is solid; placements are confidence-inspiring. While most lines are tried and true trad, there is one 5.12 route that may venture outside pure traditional style, so plan accordingly. For those intent on logging classic miles, It Takes a Thief and Thick as Thieves are essential ticks—each rewarding determination and attention to gear. Route beta and anchor building are part of the experience here, so bring a solid rack and be ready to think on your feet.

Planning your descent is straightforward: routes lend themselves to rappels, possible thanks to the accessible cliff top. A well-stocked gear kit and careful anchor evaluation ensure safe returns to the base.

Though tucked just outside Colorado Springs, Den of Thieves feels worlds away—remote enough to foster focus but close enough to return to town for coffee and stories before the afternoon crowds set in. The natural setting, combined with its reliable morning conditions and engaging climbing, makes it a favored stop for crack hounds looking to sharpen their skills or simply savor a mountain morning. Whether you come for a single classic or to push your grade on new ground, this is a crag that values commitment and rewards preparation.

Climber Safety

Monitor your gear placements and test anchor positions carefully—while the rock quality is good, always check cracks for hidden debris and evaluate anchors at the top, especially if toproping.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchessingle pitch
Length40-55 feet feet

Local Tips

Aim for an early start to make the most of morning shade and cool temperatures.

Use cairn markers to guide your approach up the hillside—watch for tree stump cairns after tunnel 7.

The parking area can fill quickly with mountain bikers, especially on weekends, so plan accordingly.

A short static cord is invaluable for setting toprope anchors from the easily accessible top—consider bringing one even if leading.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The routes at Den of Thieves fall solidly within the 5.10b to 5.12 spectrum, offering challenging yet fair grades that avoid the notorious sandbag reputation of other Front Range areas. Expect a genuine test on clean cracks—these climbs reflect their given ratings and require thoughtful protection and climbing skill.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack—cracks are smooth-sided and take gear well. A short static cord is recommended for toprope anchors due to easy access at the cliff top. Be prepared with enough slings for anchor building.

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Tags

crack climbing
single pitch
morning shade
trad
Colorado
technical
good gear