"Leg of Ilg is a short but inviting traditional climb on Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge. Its quick, ground-level crux and manageable protection make it a great warm-up or brief adventure in one of Colorado’s iconic climbing spots."
The Leg of Ilg offers a concise yet sharp introduction to traditional climbing at Eldorado Canyon's West Ridge. Just 70 feet in length with a single pitch, this climb stakes its claim with a straightforward line punctuated by a brief, immediate crux rated at 5.8-. From the moment you step onto the route, the rock presents a left-facing corner demanding precise footwork and steady hands. The surrounding terrain is forgiving at first, a patch of mixed forest undergrowth that requires some careful bushwhacking to reach the base—nature’s subtle prelude to the climb ahead. Once engaged, the crack encourages confident, tactical movements, rewarding patience and measured effort.
Eldorado Canyon, known for its towering sandstone walls and rich climbing heritage, offers this route as a swift warm-up or stepping stone before tackling more committing climbs like Earnest Stemmingway above. The approach places you in the heart of this famed climbing playground—expect cool breezes filtering through ponderosas and the sharp scent of pine needles underfoot. The crux near the ground asks climbers to find their rhythm quickly; its moderate challenge feels just right for those stepping into trad climbing or looking for a brief, focused pitch.
Standard traditional gear suffices here, with placements that accommodate common cams and nuts, giving you flexibility without complicated rack decisions. The protection isn’t overly technical, making it accessible but still demanding enough to test your comfort on natural pro. After topping out, you can choose to continue upward onto Earnest Stemmingway or traverse off to the east to descend, placing this spot as a crossroads within Eldorado’s rich network.
For planning, start early to catch the morning light and avoid the afternoon glare, as the West Ridge faces east and invites warming sun well before midday. The climb’s short length means it fits well into half-day outings, complementing other routes in the area. Durable, sticky climbing shoes will help in the corner’s subtle jams, and hydration is key—after the bushwhack approach, a clear head and well-fueled body make all the difference.
Overall, Leg of Ilg may be brief, but it delivers a contained adventure rooted in precise technique and natural flow. This route invites you to engage fully with Eldorado’s character—weathered stone, forest whispers, and the steady heartbeat of the climb beneath your hands. Whether you’re brushing off the rust or beginning your trad journey, this pitch offers a grounded yet invigorating encounter with one of Colorado’s classic climbing areas.
The bushwhack approach features uneven ground and trees; watch footing to avoid twisted ankles. The rock, while generally solid, can be slightly sandy—double-check all pro placements carefully. Descending east requires attention to route-finding to avoid loose terrain.
Begin the approach early to enjoy morning light on the East-facing West Ridge.
Wear sticky climbing shoes for secure foot jams in the corner crack.
Carry enough water to stay hydrated after the bushwhack through forest before the climb.
After topping out, consider continuing to Earnest Stemmingway for a longer adventure or walk off east to descend.
This route requires a standard rack of traditional protection with cams and nuts adequate to protect the left-facing corner. Placements are straightforward, making gear selection simple for trad climbers.
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