"Leachy Nuts offers a focused trad challenge on a bolted face beneath the upper crack of The Art Of The Deal. A single pitch blending secure protection with delicate placements, it’s a technical test amid Joshua Tree’s sun-drenched desert."
Leachy Nuts presents a sharp, technically rewarding trad climb perched on the rugged face of Rich And Famous Cliff in Joshua Tree National Park. This single-pitch route stakes its claim just beneath the upper crack of The Art Of The Deal, carving a path that angles right to a clean bolt line and distinctive supplemental gear placements. The rock is solid, with Joshua Tree’s signature coarse texture that demands precision hand and footwork. Climbers will find a challenging 5.10a experience that balances delicately between powerful face moves on well-spaced bolts and thoughtful gear placements among small to medium cams. The climb requires both mental focus and confident footwork in a desert environment where the desert sun and sharp quartzite demand respect.
The approach to Rich And Famous Cliff offers a hands-on desert plunge: dusty paths brushed by creosote bushes leading to quartz monzonite boulders aged by sun and wind. As you arrive, the cliff’s sun-baked face stretches upward, a vertical playground that urges movement with its inviting friction and strategic protection points. Leachy Nuts stands apart from nearby lines by veering just right before the upper crack of the adjacent climb, offering a fresh, bolt-protected traverse that climbers appreciate for its security paired with trad placements. Expect a measured pace here — the route’s six bolts give peace of mind, yet the cam placements require careful choosing amid small but reliable cracks.
For those aiming to send, timing the climb mid-morning or late afternoon is wise. The cliff’s east-facing orientation means direct sun in the late morning, warming the rock and aiding grip—but avoid peak midday heat. Cooler early mornings offer excellent friction and less glare, especially in spring and fall. Joshua Tree’s dry environment calls for ample hydration, sun protection, and shoes with sticky rubber to handle the technical face and slight smears. The descent is straightforward via a bolted rappel anchor, making the route an accessible yet demanding introduction for trad climbers looking to push into 5.10 territory.
Leachy Nuts is a fitting challenge for climbers who appreciate balance between sport-like security and trad’s problem-solving. Its low traffic makes it a quiet gem when busy draws pull crowds elsewhere in Joshua Tree. Approach with respect for the desert conditions and the rock’s unforgiving edges. In return, you’ll find an engaging climb that sharpens your technique and leaves a lasting impression in the stark beauty of southern California’s high desert climbing scene.
Though well protected by bolts, some gear placements require attention to placement quality; the desert rock can be sharp, so maintaining careful hand positioning is important. Watch for sun exposure during warm months, and use the bolted rappel anchor for a safe descent.
Approach early or late in the day to avoid intense midday sun.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for the technical face climbing.
Bring a standard trad rack emphasizing small to mid-sized cams.
Stay hydrated—Joshua Tree’s desert air is dry and warming.
Six bolts protect key sections of the route, supplemented with small to medium cams placed in subtle cracks. A bolted rappel anchor ensures easy descent.
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