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Le Veuve Noire at Irishman's Temple: A Bold Trad and Aid Ascent

Grand Junction, Colorado United States
off-width
finger crack
aid climbing
multi-pitch
loose rock
big wall
desert climbing
overhanging rappel
Length: 250 ft
Type: Trad, Aid
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Le Veuve Noire
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Le Veuve Noire threads a demanding off-width and finger crack up Irishman's Temple’s south face, blending aid and free climbing in a striking two-pitch climb. Expect gritty rock, tricky protection, and a descent that keeps adrenaline high."

Le Veuve Noire at Irishman's Temple: A Bold Trad and Aid Ascent

Carving its way up the sheer south face of Irishman's Temple, Le Veuve Noire commands respect with a relentless crack system that tests both your technical edge and your composure. This two-pitch route rises 250 feet through layers of ancient sandstone, combining a gritty aid sequence with challenging free climbing moves that keep climbers engaged from start to finish.

The initial pitch pulls you through a pronounced crack that angles sharply under a roof, demanding steady finger-to-fist jams and precise placements. Its line is clear but unforgiving; you’ll find a ledge mid-pitch with a pod perfect for a belay, offering a moment to breathe and prepare before the upper section’s demands. The rock texture varies—while some features feel solid, you'll notice areas where peeling flakes and embedded dirt warn of less reliable holds. This mixture creates an engaging tension: the crack's protection calls for a full rack from finger-sized cams up to mid-range, with a couple of larger pieces for security. Although it’s rated at around 5.9 with a C1+ aid rating, the dirty and loose sections might make free-climbing ambitions closer to 5.11 territory for those considering a push.

Pitch two continues the upward battle, morphing from off-width grips to fingers, maneuvering through sections of very soft rock risky enough to warrant caution. You’ll transition through a chimney without protection for a short stretch, where flow and balance become your best allies. This pitch ends at the top of a leaning pillar adjoining the main tower, providing access to a shared anchor system with the adjacent route, The Cleansing. Here, the elevated perspective reveals an expansive rocky skyline and dramatic drop-offs that remind you why you climbed.

The descent is a significant part of the experience, requiring three rappels with two 60m ropes. Keep an eye on the second rappel, which is notable for an overhanging section forcing a dynamic swing and a run across the wall to reach the next anchor. It’s a thrilling conclusion and a good reminder to stay focused until your feet touch solid ground again.

Irishman's Temple stands just west of Grand Junction, Colorado, in the expansive Colorado National Monument. The area balances remote wilderness with accessible beauty—climbers often relish the silence punctuated by wind and distant calls, away from urban hum. Planning a trip here means anticipating an approach through desert steps and dry, exposed paths. Wear sturdy footwear for gritty terrain and carry ample water to stay hydrated under the sun’s unrelenting gaze.

Whether you're easing into aid climbing or testing your crack climbing skills, Le Veuve Noire offers a mix of engagement and challenge with the backdrop of Colorado’s raw desert cliffs. This climb is as much a mental puzzle as a physical one, where patience and respect for the rock’s fragile sections pay off with memorable exposure and a true feeling of standing on the edge of the high desert.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on soft, peeling rock sections and thoroughly inspect each placement. The overhanging rappel requires confident rope handling to avoid pendulum swings that could lead to injury.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Aid
Pitches2
Length250 feet

Local Tips

Prepare for loose rock and dirt-filled cracks; test placements thoroughly.

Be ready for swinging or running moves during the second rappel; secure your gear well.

Carry two 60m ropes for a smooth descent using The Cleansing anchors.

Bring plenty of water and schedule climbs for early morning to avoid afternoon heat.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 C1+
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 C1+ rating captures a solid blend of free and aid challenges. The climb’s protection isn’t forgiving—dirty cracks and peeling rock keep you focused, pushing the effective difficulty higher than the grade suggests. Free climbing sections around 5.11 are possible but demanding, especially given the gear conditions. This route feels slightly stiffer than typical 5.9s in the region, rewarded with exposed climbing and sustained crack sequences.

Gear Requirements

Requires a double set of cams from fingers to fists, with extras for mid-sizes. Bring two #4.5 and #5 Camalots for key placements, especially on pitch one’s roof section and pitch two’s off-widths.

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Tags

off-width
finger crack
aid climbing
multi-pitch
loose rock
big wall
desert climbing
overhanging rappel