2nd Band at Redstein - Colorado’s Classic Mixed Trad and Sport Climbing

Carbondale, Colorado
mixed climbing
trad gear
sport anchors
erosion sensitive
peregrine falcon
east-facing
Colorado climbing
Redstone
Length: 60-80 ft
Type: Trad | Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
White River National Forest
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The 2nd Band at Redstein in Colorado provides high-quality rock and a varied mix of trad and sport routes, set within the stunning Redstone Area. Climbers accept a slightly sketchy ledge for access, but gain solid anchors and iconic routes like Happy Crack and Groovy in return."

2nd Band at Redstein - Colorado’s Classic Mixed Trad and Sport Climbing

Perched at roughly 8,100 feet within the rugged contours of Colorado’s Redstone Area, the 2nd Band at Redstein offers climbers a distinctive blend of sport and trad routes marked by solid rock quality and an inviting variety of challenges. This tier surpasses the first band in reliability of rock texture, providing a more secure canvas for fingers to grip and toes to find purchase. Approaching the wall involves a steady ascent through a loose gully, following a cairn that signals the first band. From there, push another 100 feet higher and scout for a rightward ramp system—a natural access path that swings around a large block and unfolds the 2nd Band’s climbing stage before you.

The climbing area is well-prepped for safety, with anchors accessible for belayers on most routes, easing the logistical side of your climb. While erosion control efforts have been made to stabilize the base ledge, climbers should exercise caution as the terrain remains somewhat unsettled. This patch of Colorado rocks supports a climbing season that peaks in the temperate months, with the landscape weathering Colorado’s changing conditions through the year. Its east-facing walls catch the morning sun, warming quickly but providing enough shade to keep climbers comfortable during midday ascents in summer.

Among the noteworthy climbs here, several classic lines beckon seasoned adventurers: Happy Crack (5.10a) tempts with sustainable crack climbing, Mantle Mania (5.10b) challenges your technique on varied holds, and Groovy (5.11a) stands out with a polished feel that demands precision. For those chasing harder routes, Airball (5.10c) and the intense Pocket Puzzle (5.11d) test finger strength and body positioning, while The Anvil (5.12b) offers a step into advanced territory. Great Nuts (5.11c) rounds out the selection with solid mid-to-hard climbing, each route carrying a rating that highlights the area’s reputation for offering an approachable but credible set of pitches.

Access to the 2nd Band is anchored by a cleared, cairn-marked route ascending the approach gully, though the base ledge requires cautious footing due to ongoing erosion management. Given the area's elevation and seasonal fluctuations, climbers should prepare for variable weather and keep an eye on local wildlife updates — notably, peregrine falcon nesting restrictions have recently been eased as of late 2024, following a protective closure that demonstrated the community’s commitment to conservation. Respecting these environmental protections remains crucial to maintaining access long term.

Protection here demands a versatile rack. Mixed trad and sport gear will both find use, with many anchors fixed but traditional placements needed for certain sections. Rock quality generally supports solid placements, but some loose stones at the base suggest extra attention during gear placement and movement. The setting isn’t overly remote but sits within an exquisite national forest environment that rewards visitors with sweeping mountain views and the satisfying feeling of climbing within a living landscape. Descents generally involve walking off down established trails or easily downclimbing sections – nothing overly complicated, but familiarizing yourself with the descent route is advised.

The 2nd Band at Redstein embodies a practical challenge caught between inviting approachability and technical demands. It appeals to climbers who want to experience Colorado alpine climbing without the extremes of altitude or exposure found elsewhere. Whether you’re working on your crack climbing or polishing sport skills, this band offers a balanced playground of solid rock, varied lines, and a landscape that frames every move in classic mountain beauty. Prepare your gear, respect the environment, and embrace the rhythm of the approach to unlock an adventure both enriching and achievable.

Climber Safety

While erosion control has stabilized much of the base ledge, loose rock and unsettled footing still present hazards. Extra care is recommended when moving around the base and placing gear near the approach ramp.

Area Details

TypeTrad | Sport
Pitchessingle pitch
Length60-80 feet

Local Tips

Pay attention to the cairn marking the first band and then climb a further 100 feet to find the ramp leading to the 2nd Band.

Anchors are present at most climbs making belaying straightforward, but be cautious of the loose base ledge.

Stay updated on wildlife closures—recent peregrine falcon nesting restrictions have lifted as of September 2024.

Ideal climbing window is spring through early fall; east-facing walls warm quickly in the morning but offer shade midday.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Routes at Redstein’s 2nd Band mostly span 5.10a through 5.12b, featuring solid but approachable difficulty. The grades here feel consistent without a strong reputation for sandbagging, making this area a reliable choice for climbers seeking honest challenges. Compared to nearby venues, the rock quality offers a jump up from the first band and balances well between technical sport and gear-reliant trad climbing.

Gear Requirements

The 2nd Band features mostly fixed anchors but requires a mixed rack of trad protection alongside sport gear. Climbers should be prepared for varied placements and bring standard trad gear. The base ledge is somewhat eroded but manageable with care.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

mixed climbing
trad gear
sport anchors
erosion sensitive
peregrine falcon
east-facing
Colorado climbing
Redstone