Redstein Climbing Guide - Colorado’s Rugged East-Facing Redwall

Redstone, Colorado
east-facing
sport climbing
trad lines
variable rock quality
single pitch
steep approach
falcon protection
shade in afternoon
Length: 600 ft
Type: Sport | Trad
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
White River National Forest
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Rising 600 feet just north of Redstone, Colorado, Redstein is a dynamic red cliff offering a mix of demanding sport lines and select traditional climbs. With varied rock quality and a shaded east-facing wall, it’s a compelling destination for those who crave a challenge beyond typical sport climbs."

Redstein Climbing Guide - Colorado’s Rugged East-Facing Redwall

Redstein sits proudly above the rural landscape just north of the town of Redstone, Colorado, its striking 600-foot red cliff ribboned with a wide range of climbs that draw local grit and recent attention from new line developers and adventurous visitors alike. This east-facing wall offers a unique climbing experience where heat melts away by early afternoon, providing welcome respite through the summer months.

The scaled tiers of Redstein are divided into five main bands, each with its own character and challenge. While the area is anchored by mostly hard sport routes, sprinkled among these are trad lines for those who prefer a more mental and gear-dependent climb. The rock here can vary dramatically—some sections boast superb quality that makes every hold feel like it was etched just for your fingers, while others demand extra caution and steady footwork as loose flakes and less solid patches appear.

Approaching the cliff starts with parking at a modest dirt pullout on the west side of Highway 133, near a green "Redstone 1 Mile" sign just beyond the campground turnoff. From here, a steep but manageable 15 to 20 minute hike climbs through a rugged gully, winding rightward as you gain height to reach the various bands. For a more family-friendly option, the Family and Friends Wall offers easier access with parking on the riverside of Route 133 and a short trail marked by a white stone cairn.

With an elevation hovering around 7,615 feet, expect the air to be crisp, especially in early morning and late afternoon. Weather varies throughout the year, but the prime climbing stretches from late spring to early fall when the sun warms the rock without baking it. The cliff’s east-facing orientation offers shade by early afternoon—perfect for cooling off between pitches or lingering for sunset views.

Redstein's classic climbs reflect its range of difficulty and style. Routes like Junior Legonaut (5.8) and Style Man (5.9) provide moderate challenges ideal for solidifying technique, while seasoned climbers can push their limits on lines such as Groovy (5.11a), Pocket Puzzle (5.11d), and the intimidating The Anvil (5.12b). Many of these are sport climbs—well-bolted and technically demanding—making the cliff a place where skill and power meet.

A notable aspect is the recent surge in new routes and hardware, showing the local climbing community’s commitment to enhancing the area’s accessibility and variety. Be mindful when climbing that the rock quality fluctuates, so careful route inspection and solid anchor checks are essential for safety.

Conservation efforts here have been crucial; notably, closures for peregrine falcon nesting lifted on September 30, 2024. Climbers are reminded to respect wildlife protections and private property boundaries, as the adjacent lands are also protected and the Forest Service monitors nest activity closely.

Descending after your climb typically involves a careful hike back down the approach gully. While rappel options exist, most climbers prefer the return trail, as it is straightforward but steep, demanding attention to footing, particularly after rain or snowmelt.

Overall, Redstein offers an immersive climbing experience that balances rugged adventure with practical access and well-established infrastructure. Whether you're seeking the thrill of technical crimps and sustained sport pitches or prefer working a crack on trad gear, this cliff area encourages focused effort without the distractions of over-commercialized crags. Keep your rack tuned, your pack light, and your eyes peeled for falcons as you explore this vibrant Colorado redwall.

Climber Safety

Be vigilant of rock quality, which varies from excellent to questionable. Loose flakes and fragile sections are present and demand careful assessment before committing. The steep approach requires good footing, especially when descending after rainfall. Seasonal wildlife protections mandate respect for closures during falcon nesting periods.

Area Details

TypeSport | Trad
Pitchessingle pitch
Length600 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy shade on this east-facing cliff by early afternoon.

Park at the recommended pullouts—parking is limited and close to the climbing zones.

Check for recent closures due to falcon nesting before planning your trip.

Use caution on variable rock quality sections; always inspect holds and anchors.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Routes at Redstein start at moderate grades around 5.8 but predominantly challenge climbers in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, with many classic climbs clustered in the 5.10 to 5.11 bracket. The area is known for its generally solid sport climbs, though rock quality fluctuation can ramp up the mental game. Compared to other Colorado sport crags, Redstein’s grades feel true to their ratings, providing an authentic test without significant sandbagging.

Gear Requirements

Redstein is predominantly sport climbing with solid bolt placements across most routes. A few trad lines are available, and climbers should bring a versatile rack with cams and nuts. Recent bolting efforts have improved route security, but varied rock quality calls for extra caution. Hiking boots or durable approach shoes are recommended for the steep 15–20 minute approach.

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Tags

east-facing
sport climbing
trad lines
variable rock quality
single pitch
steep approach
falcon protection
shade in afternoon