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Kidney Stones: A Solid Traditional Climb on Medlicott Dome

Tuolumne Meadows, California United States
Tuolumne granite
knobby holds
long pitches
multi-pitch trad
bolt-protected crux
moderate runouts
Length: 550 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Kidney Stones
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Kidney Stones offers a classic Tuolumne traditional climb with four pitches of knobby granite and varied crack systems. The route’s highlight is a committing third pitch featuring striped headwalls and wide bolt spacing, demanding a mix of technical skill and mental focus."

Kidney Stones: A Solid Traditional Climb on Medlicott Dome

Kidney Stones carves a distinctive path up the west face of Medlicott Dome, delivering a rugged traditional climb that tests both technique and mental endurance. Named for the abundant feldspar megacrysts peppering the granite and its proximity to the well-known Piss Easy route, Kidney Stones offers a blend of textured climbing and long, committing pitches that hold the character Tuolumne granite is famous for. From the first move on pitch one to the summit ledge atop pitch four, each section challenges climbers with engaging crack systems, knobby edges, and carefully spaced protection.

Pitch one introduces climbers to a knobby black streak that climbs past a handful of bolts, weaving through a tight roof crack before easing into a hand crack that leads to a spacious, secure ledge. The rock here demands attention—granite knobs provide holds that both connect and demand precise body work, while the protection to one inch pieces means careful gear placement is essential. Pitch two takes a less-traveled right-hand variation toward the second pitch of Piss Easy, following an undulating flake system that draws you steadily to a broad diagonal ledge halfway up the face. It’s a long stretch but an immersive part of the climb, offering a moment to settle into the rhythm of Tuolumne granite.

The crux comes on pitch three, where climbers navigate a steep, striped headwall festooned with excellent knobs. The angle eases gradually as you push right, threading past widely spaced bolts that call for confident moves and a steady mind, especially since some sections are rated 5.6 R. A striking right-arcing roof appears near the top, inviting a tricky mantle and a final push up slab to a well-earned two-bolt anchor beneath a white, right-facing corner. Many parties choose to rappel from this station, often descending 180 feet down pitch three and then continuing another 170 feet down and left to the rappel point on Shagadelic, managing this efficiently with two ropes.

The final pitch offers a welcome change of pace with a low-angle corner flicking up and right towards the dome’s summit. At 5.4, it allows time to soak in the panoramic views, with gear belays giving space to breathe before the final transition to the walk-off. The descent itself is straightforward but involves a lengthy traverse south across the dome, connecting to the Cathedral Lakes fishing trail followed by descending third-class slabs and gullies back to the trailhead.

This climb demands a solid trad rack up to 3 inches and at least 10 quickdraws to handle the bolts. The stainless steel bolts and hangers throughout offer reliable protection, but placements between hardware are crucial to maintain safety. Given the length and complexity, managing two ropes for descent is recommended. Whether you’re drawn by the granite’s knobby texture or the quiet confidence required to negotiate the headwall’s challenges, Kidney Stones is a worthy addition to any Tuolumne itinerary.

Climber Safety

Runouts on pitch three around the striped headwall require calm and precise gear placements. Some bolts are spaced at fall potential distances. The descent involves third-class scrambling down slabs and gullies—stay attentive to footing, especially when tired.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches4
Length550 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the sun-exposed face.

Leave larger cams at the second pitch belay if planning to rappel from pitch three.

Bring two ropes for efficient double-rope rappels on pitch three.

Expect widely spaced protection on pitch three—trust your gear placements.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels true to standard Tuolumne cracks, but the widely spaced bolts and occasional runouts, especially on pitch three, ramp the mental effort. Pitch two is more moderate at 5.7, with a less-traveled variation that introduces length without technical stress. Overall, the grade is solid, with enough exposure to keep climbers on their toes.

Gear Requirements

Requires a standard rack from small to 3" cams, along with 10 quickdraws. Two ropes recommended to manage the longer rappels from pitch three. Fixed bolts are 3/8" SS wedges with stainless steel hangers, spaced to challenge confidence on some moves.

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Tags

Tuolumne granite
knobby holds
long pitches
multi-pitch trad
bolt-protected crux
moderate runouts