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Key West at Badger Mountain: A Classic Moderate Trad Climb

Denver, Colorado USA
patina edges
moderate trad
multi-pitch
bolt-protected
2 pitch
Colorado climbing
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Key West
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Key West at Badger Mountain offers two pitches of engaging moderate trad climbing marked by clean patina edges and solid protection. Accessible and scenic, this route invites climbers to sharpen trad skills within striking South Platte views."

Key West at Badger Mountain: A Classic Moderate Trad Climb

Key West offers a refreshing escape into the heart of Colorado’s Badger Mountain climbing scene, presenting two pitches of solid, classic moderate trad climbing that both novice and seasoned climbers will appreciate. The route carves out a vertical face adorned with beautiful patina edges, inviting steady, confident movement. The first pitch is bolted, providing a practical runout with seven fixed draws, helping to build rhythm as you ascend. Transitioning to the second pitch, the challenge deepens with three bolts spaced along the route, but also rewarding those prepared to place their own protection up to 2 inches in size. The rock here feels alive under your fingertips, its texture offering reliable friction while the edges demand accurate footwork and precise hand placements.

Approaching Badger Mountain means walking into an open, high-desert environment where the air is crisp and dry, and where the surrounding views stretch out toward the South Platte basin. The climb’s vertical walls catch the morning light, casting long shadows that help climbers read holds and rest spots more effectively. This climb is accessible without a long approach hike; the trail is straightforward and firm underfoot, perfect for a quick ascent after a brief warm-up. Whether you make this a half-day outing or part of a larger climbing itinerary, Key West offers a practical opportunity to hone crack and face climbing skills while enjoying the clear, expansive Colorado skies.

Safety and preparation here are straightforward but important: solid trad gear, including a full rack reaching up to 2 inches, is essential to supplement the bolted anchors. The bolted first pitch makes for a user-friendly lead start, but the second pitch demands more traditional placements, testing your ability to read the rock and protect yourself confidently. Aim to climb in spring through fall for optimal conditions, as the wall faces east and warms early in the day but can cool quickly with shifting weather. Bring sturdy, reliable footwear with sticky rubber to navigate the granular, patina-textured rock.

Key West balances the charm of a moderate climb with the technical satisfaction of trad protection placement. It’s a solid choice for climbers looking to sharpen skills in a scenic yet approachable setting, where the rock’s character and the mountain’s openness lend both challenge and reward. Whether you're stepping up your traditional climbing game or just chasing afternoons under wide blue skies, this route delivers a grounded, memorable experience on the vertical.

Climber Safety

While the first pitch is well protected with bolts, the second pitch requires confident gear placements up to 2 inches. Be sure to double-check all placements and remain vigilant for loose rock or less obvious pro spots. Approach and descent trails are well-established but watch for loose gravel underfoot.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length feet

Local Tips

Carry a rack that includes cams up to 2 inches to supplement the second pitch's bolts.

Start early to catch the morning sun on the east-facing wall for improved grip.

Footwear with sticky rubber enhances traction on the patina edges.

Check weather forecasts before climbing, as conditions can shift rapidly at Badger Mountain.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels approachable for intermediate climbers, with the bolted first pitch easing the lead-in. The second pitch ups the ante by mixing bolts with traditional placements, adding a technical edge that demands solid gear placement and route reading. This route sits comfortably in the moderate range, similar in commitment and style to other South Platte trad climbs.

Gear Requirements

Pitch one is bolted with seven draws, making for an efficient lead. Pitch two features three bolts and requires additional gear placements up to 2 inches for full protection.

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Tags

patina edges
moderate trad
multi-pitch
bolt-protected
2 pitch
Colorado climbing