"Just a Small Town Dog delivers clean, classic crack climbing on Unaweep Granite’s Main Canyon wall. This single-pitch trad route blends solid jamming with technical finger cracks, giving climbers a focused 5.9 challenge with approachable protection and a peaceful desert setting."
Just a Small Town Dog offers a focused dose of classic crack climbing in the heart of The Playground, one of Colorado’s most distinctive granite climbing areas. This concise 70-foot trad route presents a straightforward but thoroughly satisfying challenge for crack enthusiasts. The climb begins with powerful jams in an open, right-angled crack that invites you to lock in and feel the rock under your hands and feet. Above, the crack opens up, requiring a subtle changeover to a thinner finger-to-thin-hand crack that demands precision and commitment to reach the anchors.
From the moment your fingers slide into the initial crack, you encounter rock that demands respect and attentiveness. The granite here is solid and textured, offering excellent friction, while the crack shapes force you into a natural rhythm that balances strength with finesse. This route’s character lies in its purity: straightforward protection placements ranging from 1-inch cams to larger 5-inch pieces allow you to gear up confidently. Just take care around the large cantilevered block perched slightly left and above the start. It’s firmly wedged, but approaching with care ensures peace of mind.
The Playground area is known for its clean, well-maintained routes, and Small Town Dog stands out for those seeking a quality crack climb without the complications of longer multi-pitch routes. Located in the Main Canyon of Unaweep Granite, the setting is remote enough to feel off the beaten path but accessible enough for a day trip from Grand Junction. The approach traverses scrubby desert terrain peppered with juniper and sage, providing a quiet walk-in as coyotes call and the afternoon sun softens on the rock face.
Whether you’re aiming to sharpen your crack climbing technique or simply enjoy a crisp, approachable 5.9 with solid protection in a peaceful canyon, Small Town Dog delivers. Ideal for cooler mornings or late afternoons when the sun hits the wall at a gentle angle, this climb rewards concentration and careful footwork.
Planning your ascent here means packing a broad rack from small to large cams, ensuring you can confidently protect every jam. A sticky rubber sole will help on the smaller edges and feet placements, where precision counts. Check conditions beforehand, as afternoon winds can pick up in Unaweep Canyon, and always remember to leave no trace on this pristine granite playground.
Although protection is plentiful, keep a careful eye on the large cantilevered block perched left near the start – it’s stable but can present a psychological hurdle. The approach trail has sections of loose gravel requiring steady footing, especially after rains.
Avoid the large cantilever block just left and above the start; it’s stable but best treated with caution.
Approach through scrub and open desert terrain, watch for loose gravel on the trail.
Best climbed in the early morning or late afternoon when the wall is not in direct sun.
Pack plenty of water — the desert environment can dry you out quickly.
Bring a rack covering 1" to 5" cams for secure placements; the cracks offer solid jamming but require a range of sizes for protection. Sticky shoes recommended for the thinner finger crack at the top.
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