"Jenny-Lynn's Special provides a refreshing 100-foot 5.8 trad pitch on Unaweep Granite, blending solid crack protection with clean face climbing. Ideal for climbers ready to step into moderate trad challenges, this route offers thoughtful gear placements and a straightforward descent in a stunning Colorado canyon setting."
Jenny-Lynn's Special greets climbers with a straightforward yet rewarding 100-foot pitch carved into the striking Unaweep Granite of Colorado’s Middle Mother’s Buttress. This route stands out for its clean lines and accessible climbing, inviting anyone comfortable with 5.8 trad moves to test their skills on a face dominated by a wide corner and protective crack features. The climb begins by ascending an obvious wide corner situated just left of the more frequently visited Double Reach Around. As you move upward, the route transitions to a mostly face climb where a prominent crack provides solid placements for gear, creating a dependable progression that balances the exposure with security.
The granite’s texture here carries the story of wind-sculpted cliffs and arid mountain air—each hold feels carved by natural forces, gripping yet inviting. Approaching the upper section, the crack and handholds veer to the left, guiding you to a shared anchor with the Double Reach Around route. This convergence marks a natural and efficient finish, meaning climbers can enjoy solid belay stances and safe lowering.
Protection requires a range of gear, emphasizing a single set up to a Camalot #3, with doubles advised for smaller sizes to handle the subtle variations in crack width. Nuts and slings will provide additional security, reflecting the route’s varied placements and the need for thoughtful rack selection. While the route sees fewer votes in guidebooks, its steady challenge and straightforward path make it a quiet gem for those ready to explore Unaweep Canyon’s granite faces beyond the popular lines.
Climbers approaching Jenny-Lynn’s Special should anticipate a relatively short hike into Middle Mother’s from the main trailhead, with access that’s uncomplicated but demands attention to desert weather conditions—shade is limited, and afternoon heat can increase the difficulty of the approach and climbing experience. Early starts are recommended to enjoy cooler temperatures and optimal friction on the granite.
From the base, the sight lines open up onto steep walls and the unfolding canyon, a reminder of the raw beauty of Colorado’s high desert cliffs. The route’s moderate rating makes it approachable for those moving beyond beginner trad grades, combining a chance to navigate classic crack placements with inviting face holds. The overall feel is practical and straightforward, with just enough exposure to inspire focus and execution.
For descent, climbers can rappel from the shared anchor back to the ground safely, a quick and convenient exit that caps the route’s practical appeal. Jenny-Lynn's Special offers a solid day climb option—compact, confident, and rewarding—grounded in quality rock and timeless movement.
While the protection is well-distributed, the rock’s steepness means occasional runouts near the upper face—careful rack management and careful placement of gear is essential. Heat and sun exposure can cause dehydration; ensure ample water and sun protection on the approach and during the climb. The rappel anchor is shared and solid but check all gear before lowering.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and increase grip friction.
Bring doubles in smaller cam sizes to cover all crack sections.
Watch for limited shade on the approach and route—plan hydration accordingly.
Use the shared anchor with Double Reach Around for a secure rappel.
A single set of cams up to #3 Camalot covers most placements. Doubling smaller cams provides added security for varying crack widths. Nuts and slings are useful for additional anchoring. Expect steady but straightforward protection options with solid gear placements along the crack and face.
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