HomeClimbingInner Reaches

Inner Reaches: A Friendly Trad Climb at Turkey Tail

Denver, Colorado USA
right-leaning crack
hand crack
single pitch
good belay station
Turkey Rock
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Inner Reaches
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Inner Reaches is a 100-foot, one-pitch trad climb along a clean right-leaning crack on Turkey Tail’s north side. Its approachable protection and solid rock make it a rewarding option for climbers at 5.8 looking for a reliable, scenic route near Denver."

Inner Reaches: A Friendly Trad Climb at Turkey Tail

Inner Reaches offers an inviting introduction to trad climbing on the north face of Turkey Tail, part of the well-known South Platte climbing collection in Colorado. This one-pitch, 100-foot route features a right-leaning crack system that immediately draws you in with its clean lines and approachable style. As you make your way up, the crack reveals a hidden hand crack section that challenges your technique without overwhelming your senses. The rock here feels solid, with the route hugging the eastern edge of Turkey Tail’s north aspect, making it one of the more accessible climbs amidst the nearby steep slabs and offwidths.

Your approach is straightforward: marked by a large cairn standing guard at the base, this climb is easy to spot, even for first-time visitors to the area. The setting balances raw natural ruggedness with a sense of comfort—a rare mix that invites both cautious beginners and seasoned climbers looking for a smooth warm-up. At the summit, a satisfying mantel move leads to clipped fixed slings, a reassuring touch for the descent, and one of the best belay stations on the north side of the Tail.

The rock itself demands steady footwork and awareness of your gear placements. A standard Turkey Rock rack will cover it well, with some attention needed for precise placements along the crack’s subtle shifts. Given the solid protection and moderate difficulty rating of 5.8, Inner Reaches is perfect for climbers gearing up for higher grades or seeking a pleasant, less intimidating route.

Plan for a 70-meter rope to comfortably lower off, although a 60-meter rope can work with careful rope management. The climb’s position means it catches the morning sun, offering warmth and better friction in cooler seasons. Be prepared for brief exposure to afternoon shade, making it a great choice from spring through early fall.

The approach trail, while short, winds through scrub oak and pine, carrying quiet hints of the nearby South Platte River—its distant rush occasionally reminding you of the wild nature surrounding the climbing zones. Expect a 15-minute hike from the nearest parking, followed by an easy scramble to the base. Hydration is key in these semi-arid surroundings, so pack accordingly.

Inner Reaches stands out as a clean, straightforward route that mixes serene natural beauty with practical climbing challenges. It’s a route that speaks directly to those who appreciate solid rock, clear beta, and a good climb without fuss. Whether you’re working on your crack technique or just want a reliable single-pitch route with quality protection, this one ranks high on the list at Turkey Rock.

Prepare properly, respect the weather shifts typical for the Front Range, and savor the direct connection with the rock and landscape here. The rhythm of the climb, the tactile feedback of hand jams, and the quiet encouragement of the forested surroundings make Inner Reaches not just a climb, but an experience worth timing your trip around.

Climber Safety

The mantel at the top requires careful positioning; the rock is solid but demands focused movement to clip the fixed slings. Watch for loose rock around the base cairn area and take caution during early or late season climbs when the rock can feel slick from moisture or frost.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Look for the large cairn to find the route’s base easily.

Early mornings provide optimal friction and sunlight on the route.

Carry enough water; the approach crosses dry forest terrain with little shade.

Use a 70m rope for comfortable lowers; a 60m rope works with careful management.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 grade here feels fair and approachable, leaning towards the softer side given the well-protected and straightforward crack system. Climbers familiar with nearby Turkey Rock routes might find this one more user-friendly with a crux at the mantel move near the top that adds a satisfying challenge without pushing into higher technical terrain.

Gear Requirements

Bringing a standard Turkey Rock trad rack covers the protection needs of Inner Reaches well. Focus on gear that fits hand to fist-sized placements for the right-leaning crack, with an emphasis on clean, stable placements.

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Tags

right-leaning crack
hand crack
single pitch
good belay station
Turkey Rock