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Initial Route on West Ridge at Eldorado Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
left-leaning bands
chimney squeeze
acute dihedral
multi-pitch trad
Eldorado Canyon
Length: 170 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Initial Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Initial Route on West Ridge at Eldorado Canyon offers a compelling three-pitch trad climb blending technical face moves with a challenging chimney squeeze. Perfect for climbers seeking to hone delicate crack technique in a classic Colorado setting."

Initial Route on West Ridge at Eldorado Canyon

Carved into the rugged contours of Eldorado Canyon's West Ridge, the Initial Route offers a hands-on journey through a mix of technical face climbing and tricky chimney squeezes. This three-pitch trad climb demands both patience and finesse, rewarding climbers with a raw slice of Colorado’s climbing heritage. You approach the base by scrambling up to the amphitheater’s main ledge, where the rock shifts from solid bands to looming overhangs that challenge your route-finding skills from the start.

The first pitch pulls you around a corner just left of the neighboring Allosaur route, beginning on a series of left-leaning bands that both beckon and warn with their uneven, weathered edges. Here, the holds invite a steady rhythm; underclings and delicate holds keep your balance as you navigate towards a left-facing corner, where solid rock promises a safe belay after roughly 60 feet. Although protection is scarce near the crux, the climbing angle remains accessible, hovering around 5.5 difficulty.

Pitch two forces a shift in tactics as you face a flaring chimney squeeze that feels less than welcoming, especially if you’re under average height. The crux sits in mastering this narrow slot; you’ll lean into fingerlocks and armbars to find leverage while placing small cams in awkward spots without obscuring holds. This section tests reach and body control with moves rated between 5.8 and 5.10, depending on your stature. Once atop this physical challenge, a juniper anchors your belay, perched confidently on a ledge that offers a moment to catch your breath and plan the final push.

The concluding pitch winds up a clean, acute dihedral that gradually eases from vertical to low angle as you ascend. At around 5.7, this section provides refreshing relief from the earlier struggle, with solid rock and natural features guiding your path. The last moves merge with the Allosaur’s final stretch, linking the two routes in a shared finish.

Descent options are multiple but careful planning is key. The most straightforward involves following a scramble east then south around the backside of the amphitheater, arriving at rap anchors from which a single rope rappel will bring you back to the base. While a 50-meter rope might suffice, longer cords between 60 and 70 meters offer peace of mind.

Initial Route stands as an approachable yet engaging challenge for climbers comfortable with traditional gear and intermediate grades. Its changing moves and line complexity make it a smart choice for those wanting to sharpen chimney skills and route-finding without stepping into extreme territory. Pack light, focus on technique, and keep your eyes peeled—the rock’s subtle shifts hide both the key holds and the vital protection spots.

Climber Safety

Protection on pitch one is limited near the crux, so trust your movement and choose placements carefully. The chimney on pitch two demands awareness of spacing for cams and body positioning—poor placements or hesitation can increase risk. Descent involves non-technical scrambling; ensure familiarity with the rappel anchor locations to avoid dangerous loose rock zones.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length170 feet

Local Tips

Begin your approach early to avoid afternoon heat on exposed ledges.

Scout upper pitches from the amphitheater ledge if you can't find the first pitch immediately.

Bring a 60m rope for comfortable rappelling; 50m may be tight.

Mind your gear placements on pitch two — cramped spots call for small cams and precise positioning.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, this route offers a solid moderate challenge with a slightly stiff crux on pitch two due to the chimney’s reach-dependent difficulty. The grade is fair, though shorter climbers may find the moves around 5.10 in demand. Compared to nearby routes, Initial Route is less sustained but requires judicious gear choices and controlled movement.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack including a set of stoppers and cams. Bring a range of cams up to size 4, but keep gear light to ease the tricky placements on pitch two’s chimney. Overloading protection will complicate the crux.

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Tags

left-leaning bands
chimney squeeze
acute dihedral
multi-pitch trad
Eldorado Canyon