"Imp's Arete is a sharp, north-facing ridge climb on the Watch Crystal face that blends moderate trad moves with well-placed bolts to protect its airy exposure. Perfect for climbers seeking a solid 5.9 adventure close to Durango’s alpine setting."
Imp's Arete presents a compelling trad climb that traces the sharp, north-facing ridge of the Watch Crystal face in Colorado’s rugged East Animas Valley. This 90-foot route invites climbers to engage a blend of cruisy climbing with thoughtful moments of challenge, set against the raw mountain backdrop near Durango. Beginning from either the top belay ledge of Evolution or the hanging belay anchor of Crime and Punishment, the ascent moves steadily along the arete, offering clean edges and reliable holds that serve both newcomers and experienced climbers seeking a solid 5.9 pitch peppered with well-placed bolted sections.
The arete maintains a fresh and airy exposure that rewards climbers with sweeping views of the surrounding summits, while the north-facing aspect offers a welcome respite from direct sun, making spring and early fall the ideal windows for this climb. Its connection potential is notably strong: linking with Crime and Punishment for a longer pitch makes for a memorable push where the crux climbs—a technical 5.11 section on Crime and Punishment—loom below the initial belay ledge 35 feet up.
Protection is straightforward, with eight bolts and a necessity for a handful of cams in the 0.4 to 0.75 range. The placements are solid, requiring only two or three pieces of gear at key points, making this a route that’s as practical as it is enjoyable. Rock quality holds firm throughout the climb, though the route’s exposure easily commands respect and focus. Whether as a standalone pitch or part of a linked experience, Imp's Arete delivers a rewarding balance of manageable difficulty and the kind of altitude that sharpens senses and steadies resolve.
Access to the climb demands a bit of planning, with the Watch Crystal area accessed through established trail networks near Durango. The approach is moderate—well-maintained but lengthier than some sport crags—offering a chance to warm up both mind and body before stepping onto the vertical. Hikers should expect about 30 to 45 minutes on foot, passing through mixed terrain that transitions from forest shade to open rock slabs as you near the base.
Climbers aiming for a smooth ascent should bring cams in the 0.4 to 0.75 range, stashed alongside a standard rack to cover the bolted protection. Good footwear with sticky soles will aid in trusting small edges and smears on the arete’s face. Timing your climb in the late morning to early afternoon capitalizes on the north-facing placement—sunlight filters gently, keeping holds cool but adequately dry.
The descent typically follows a walk-off via the ridge or a short scramble, but attentive route-finding is necessary to avoid loose rock and ensure a safe return. Climbers benefit from double-checking anchor points and prepping rappels in advance, especially if planning to link climbs during a longer day. Safety remains paramount, as exposure here intensifies once committed to the arete’s spine.
Imp's Arete stands as a top choice for trad climbers seeking a route that balances moderate technical climbing with striking terrain and a clear shot at alpine-style movement. The climb captures the essence of Colorado’s rugged granite walls—grounded, attainable, and wrapped in a natural infinity that challenges without overwhelming. Whether ticking it off solo or as part of the linked Crime and Punishment route, Imp’s Arete is an experience that rewards calculated effort with lasting impressions.
The exposure on the arete requires a steady head and secure protection placements. Watch for loose rock near the belay ledge and be cautious on the descent, where route-finding and unstable terrain can pose risks.
Start from the Evolution or Crime and Punishment anchors for the cleanest approach to the arete.
Bring a set of cams in 0.4 to 0.75 sizes to cover the mostly bolted but partially trad terrain.
Plan your climb for late morning to early afternoon to take advantage of shade on the north face.
Double-check anchors and prepare for a walk-off descent involving easy but exposed scrambling.
Eight bolts combined with a small rack of cams from 0.4 to 0.75 Camalots provide reliable security on the route. Only two to three gear placements are necessary, keeping the protection strategy focused and simple.
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