HomeClimbingI'll Be Back Crack

I'll Be Back Crack at Low Spark of High Wire Crag

Golden, Colorado United States
finger crack
pumpy
north-facing
traverse
single pitch
Clear Creek Canyon
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
I'll Be Back Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A steep, finger-jamming single pitch carved into a north-facing wall above Clear Creek. This 5.9 trad climb tests sustained pump and protection savvy in a striking canyon setting just outside Golden, Colorado."

I'll Be Back Crack at Low Spark of High Wire Crag

Perched about 40 feet above the flowing Clear Creek, I'll Be Back Crack offers a compact but demanding test of traditional climbing skill just outside Golden, Colorado. This single-pitch route threads a diagonal crack running left to right along a north-facing wall, visible from the east side bridge near Tunnel 2. The climb kicks off on a gentle arête with easy scrambling over a shelf, before slipping into 30 feet of technical finger, hand, and arm jams. A well-placed jug midway punctuates the effort, offering a brief moment of relief amid the continuous pump. The rock is solid, with reliable holds and protection options—your challenge lies in maintaining stamina across the steep and sustained crack.

At the top, a large boulder resting on a grassy knoll provides a convenient slinging point for anchors, though there are additional crack features 20 feet further up for more traditional anchor building. Because of the route’s traverse nature, careful thought is necessary when placing pro and setting anchors to protect your partner effectively. Watch your step at the upper reaches—small cacti hidden near the top demand careful foot and hand placement.

The descent is straightforward but requires attentiveness: scramble southwest across the grassy knoll and climb easy, fourth-class terrain down to the base of High Wire Crag. Loose rock can pose hazards here, so move deliberately.

Low Spark of High Wire Crag lies within Clear Creek Canyon, a climbing hotspot known for its accessibility and scenic views. Its north-facing walls keep the route cooler in summer, making early mornings or late afternoons ideal for avoiding heat-related fatigue. Bring a standard trad rack with some RPs and ample long slings to manage the traverse anchor setup. This crack balances the exhilaration of technical climbing with the approachable nature of a single-pitch outing. Whether you’re testing your crack technique or seeking an engaging warm-up, I'll Be Back Crack delivers a firm workout against a backdrop of rushing water and canyon walls.

Climber Safety

Take care on the grassy knoll descent; loose rock and uneven footing can cause slips. Also, be mindful of small cacti at the top of the crack, which can cause injury if not noticed.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cool temps on this north-facing route.

Prepare for sustained finger jams and pumpy moves—pace yourself carefully.

Use long slings on pro to reduce rope drag around the diagonal crack.

Caution: watch out for small cacti near the climb’s top section.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.9, this climb feels stout due to its sustained nature and diagonal crack section. The crux lies in maintaining energy through continuous jams rather than a single technical move. It offers a similar challenge to other local 5.9 crack routes but stands out for its unique left-to-right traverse and consistent pump factor.

Gear Requirements

A full trad rack complemented by several RPs is essential. Bring long slings for the anchor to accommodate the route’s diagonal traverse and ensure good protection for the follower.

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Tags

finger crack
pumpy
north-facing
traverse
single pitch
Clear Creek Canyon