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I Don't Wanna Wait in Vain: A Quick Warm-Up on Zion’s First Triangle

Golden, Colorado United States
face climb
overhang crux
short pitch
warm-up
sport climbing
top rope ready
Length: 45 ft
Type: Sport, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
I Don't Wanna Wait in Vain
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Skip the lineup and dive into this concise, 45-foot single-pitch route on Zion’s First Triangle. Featuring manageable face climbing and a cruxy overhang with variable lines, this route serves as an excellent warm-up or quick challenge with easy access and secure anchors."

I Don't Wanna Wait in Vain: A Quick Warm-Up on Zion’s First Triangle

For climbers eager to jump into the action without lingering on crowded lines, "I Don't Wanna Wait in Vain" offers an accessible, engaging route that warms both fingers and spirit beneath Zion’s rugged skyline. Located on the north face of a standout block at the base of the First Triangle, this 45-foot single-pitch climb cuts a sharp figure between the more formidable "For Whom the Cap Fits" and "Three Little Bats." It’s a compact dose of the area’s character—involving face moves, tactical positioning around a cruxy overhang, and options to dial difficulty up or down depending on your mood and objective for the day.

The texture of the rock here is solid, peppered with natural holds and subtle edges that invite a steady rhythm rather than explosive power. The line begins with straightforward movement past the first three bolts, where climbers can find confident footing and secure handholds. The route’s signature challenge is an overhang near the top; the recommended tactic is to skirt it on the climber’s left, staying on the more manageable face and avoiding the slick lichen coating the eastern side. Tackling this bulge head-on or from the right demands a higher grade, flirting with the limits of a 5.9 and beyond. For those warming up or seeking a minimalist crux, the left approach balances challenge and flow.

Getting the rope in place is uncomplicated. A 2-bolt anchor with rings crowns the route, built for comfortable top-roping and safe lowering. Alternatively, those wanting extra variety can scramble to the block’s summit via the east side, where a small tree marks a strategic step-out point. From here, setting a top-rope or experimenting with alternative beta is simple, encouraging climbers to explore the nuances of this compact but quality climb.

The climb sits within a broader network of routes on Lookout Mountain Road near Golden, Colorado, a region known for its exposed granite faces and approachable sport lines. Despite a modest average star rating, "I Don't Wanna Wait in Vain" promises a no-fuss entry into the area’s climbing scene. It’s ideal as an early-morning warm-up or a quick session when your time’s limited but the urge to climb is strong. The rock’s texture, combined with the route’s straightforward anchor setup, make it a spot friendly to new-to-sport climbers looking to build confidence gradually.

Preparation is key. Midday sun sweeps across the wall, so an early start offers cooler conditions and more comfortable holds. The rock can carry some residual slickness during or after rain, especially near the lichen patches on the east face—drying time is vital to avoid slips. Standard sport gear suffices here, but bring a calm focus as you negotiate the overhang: it’s the route’s only real pitch of complexity, demanding precise moves and smooth body positioning.

Beyond the climb, the surrounding environment hums with the pulse of the Colorado Rockies—pine needles rustle underfoot, wind whispers through the needles above, and the sharp contours of nearby cliffs frame a dramatic sky. Whether you’re stepping up for a quick climb or gearing for a full day on the adjacent routes, this block’s north face is a practical choice that rewards focus and offers a taste of the region’s demanding yet inviting character.

Climber Safety

The lichen on the overhang’s eastern section can become slick when damp, increasing slip risk—approach this pitch dry and stay left of the overhang for safer passage. The anchor is solid but double-check the placement when top-roping, and watch your footing while scrambling to the block’s summit to avoid minor falls.

Route Details

TypeSport, TR
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the afternoon heat, as the face gets direct sun midday.

Avoid the east side of the overhang when wet to prevent slipping on lichen.

Bring a light rack—quickdraws and draws for bolts suffice; no trad gear needed.

Scramble carefully to the block’s top to set a top-rope or to explore alternate variations.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating is somewhat flexible based on which variations climbers take. The easiest line around the left side of the overhang holds at a soft 5.8+ level, making this climb approachable for those developing sport technique. More direct approaches to the bulge raise the difficulty more sharply, adding a crux that bumps the grade and tests precise body tension. Compared to nearby routes in the First Triangle, this climb is more forgiving and serves as a solid primer for higher difficulty lines.

Gear Requirements

The climb is equipped with five bolts leading to a two-bolt anchor sporting rings. Standard sport rack is enough; no special gear is needed beyond quickdraws and a harness. The straightforward protection lets climbers set top-rope easily from the anchor or by scrambling up the east side to the top.

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Tags

face climb
overhang crux
short pitch
warm-up
sport climbing
top rope ready