HomeClimbingI Can't Believe It's Not Better

I Can't Believe It's Not Better

Grand Junction, Colorado United States
slot crack
chimney
off-width
sandy slab
multi-pitch
desert trad
exposed
Length: 300 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
I Can't Believe It's Not Better
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Set against the rugged backdrop of Colorado National Monument, this three-pitch trad climb offers a compelling mixture of slot cracks, wild chimneys, and sandy slabs. Expect a bold desert adventure with steady technical challenges and a memorable finale on exposed terrain."

I Can't Believe It's Not Better

In the heart of Colorado National Monument, where stone giants rise from the desert floor, the route "I Can't Believe It's Not Better" offers a raw, adventurous trad climb that tests more than just your technical skill. Starting in the shadow of Esoterica Tower, this three-pitch climb winds through narrow slots and chimneys that speak to the rugged character of the Colorado high desert. The approach sets the tone with a scramble along uneven terrain, the crunch of loose sandstone beneath your boots underscoring the remoteness of the climb.

Pitch one begins with a climb through a slot canyon, where mid-5th class cracks invite hands and feet to engage steadily. On your right, a small tower stands as a silent companion while you ascend toward a gnarly chimney—this section is solid and satisfying, with enough challenge to keep focus sharp. Moving into pitch two, the route dives into an exposed off-width chimney, demanding boldness and fluid movement. The chimney’s rugged walls close in like a wild maze, forcing you to wrestle the rock and own each move. This pitch carries the spirit of adventure at its peak; it’s not just a climb, but a conversation with the towering stone.

After topping out, you reach a broad terrace—here the landscape opens up, but don’t let the false promise of an easy exit fool you. Pitch three pushes you left and upward along sandy slabs that test your balance more than your gear, with protection opportunities few and far between. The holds feel modest, and the slab’s loose grit keeps your senses alert. The final scramble leads you higher where the terrain finally loosens its grip, offering a chance to escape the vertical and savor a sweeping panorama of the Colorado plateau below.

Gear-wise, a standard desert rack will serve well, focusing on small to medium cams that fit the slot cracks, while being prepared for sparse protection on the last pitch. The rock’s texture demands clean, deliberate placements and absolute attention to footwork, especially on the sandy slabs where slips could result in a long fall. Approach time is reasonable but prepare for some off-trail scrambling through uneven desert terrain—the remoteness here rewards those ready to move with confidence.

This route embodies the spirit of classic desert trad climbing: exposure, technical moves, and a touch of unpredictability. Climbers who approach it with respect and thorough preparation will find satisfaction in every upward inch, from slot to chimney, slab to ledge. The crisp desert air, the quiet hum of the canyon’s wind, and the wide-open sky define the experience more than the grade itself, reminding you that sometimes the climb is about how the rock challenges you to adapt and overcome.

Whether you're chasing the thrill of tight cracks or testing your mettle on sandy slabs, "I Can't Believe It's Not Better" provides an engaging adventure that mixes technical climbing with a reminder that nature sets the true pace. Check weather carefully—desert heat can be intense, and afternoon winds pick up regularly. Early starts and hydration are essential to maintain edge and enjoyment. For those who cherish desert trad routes with character, this climb holds a gritty allure that rewards both skill and patience.

Climber Safety

Watch out for loose rock, especially on the approach and the sandy slabs on pitch three. Protection is limited on the upper pitch, so maintain careful balance and control. Desert heat and sudden winds can sap energy quickly—plan accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length300 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and winds common in the canyon.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber for sandy slab sections.

Carry plenty of water—desert conditions dehydrate quickly.

Be prepared for loose rock and scrubby approach terrain.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, the climb feels true to its grade with a solid crux in the off-width chimney on pitch two that demands strength and technique. The final pitch’s sandy slabs add a layer of mental challenge because of the sparse gear, making the overall effort feel slightly stiffer than a straightforward 5.9. Compared to nearby routes in Colorado National Monument, this climb blends classic crack climbing with uncommon slabby moves, offering a varied experience.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full desert rack focusing on small to medium cams for the slot cracks. Protection becomes scarce on the final sandy slab pitch, so be ready for runouts and place gear carefully.

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Tags

slot crack
chimney
off-width
sandy slab
multi-pitch
desert trad
exposed