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Hypothermia in Eldorado Canyon: A Compact Trad Challenge on West Ridge

Boulder, Colorado United States
finger crack
loose rock
overhang crux
tree belay
short trad route
Length: 95 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hypothermia
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hypothermia offers climbers a steep, gear-intensive trad pitch in the wild edge of Eldorado Canyon. Short but packed with technique and real rock challenges, it demands respect and careful protection to savor its bold moves."

Hypothermia in Eldorado Canyon: A Compact Trad Challenge on West Ridge

Hypothermia, a short but demanding trad route carved into the rugged West Ridge of Eldorado Canyon, pulls climbers into a steep, physical contest where each move carries weight. At just under 100 feet, the climb packs intense, technical sequences on rock that tests both your skill and your nerve. The approach requires patience—a long hike to earn a brief but memorable climb that rewards with hand jams and crack climbing that put your gear placement precision to the test.

The initial section keeps you honest with loose and flaky rock hidden in the first 15 feet. Careful footwork and placement here are crucial for safety and conserving strength for the crux above. This crux challenges you with an overhang that requires powerful underclings beneath hollow flakes that feel precarious, as if the rock itself is questioning your presence. Trust your protection here, placing solid nuts in a tight finger crack that demands attention and finesse.

Moving past the crux, finger locks guide you into a wider crack. A #5 cam offers security but many find a #4 or even #3 sufficient, though carrying that extra size provides peace of mind. The climb twists through a leftward jog where a massive block looms—a potential hazard that must be treated with respect. YARDING on this rock is advised; it behaves like a welcome jug though loose enough to keep you vigilant.

A strategic belay spot appears at a comfortable tree, allowing a moment to regroup and watch your partner tackle the short second pitch. Linking the two pitches is possible, but the break lets you savor the hand jams and boulder-like moves that close the route. Top-out brings you to another tree, your anchor for a rappel or a hike around the Potato Chip to descend, rewarding those who want to stretch the adventure a little longer.

Though it lacks the grandeur of longer Eldorado classics, Hypothermia’s compact intensity delivers a memorable slice of trad climbing that tests your route-reading and gear management skills on relatively suspect but still climbable stone. Preparation calls for a full standard rack to #4 cam, with an optional #5 if you want added backup for the wider sections. Slings and a set-up for a rappel at the top complete the essentials.

Approach the route with awareness for the rocky terrain and bring sturdy shoes to handle the hike and climb carefully in the initial loose sections. Early starts prevent afternoon wind exposure common to this ridge, keeping you warm and steady. The climb’s southwest-facing aspect provides sun for most of the day, but warming layers are advised in shoulder seasons when cold currents press into the canyon.

In short, Hypothermia offers a straightforward, tactical trad experience for climbers who want sharp moves and solid gear challenges in a stunning, if less traveled, pocket of Eldorado Canyon. It’s perfect for those ready to balance effort with caution and trade length for concentrated commitment.

Climber Safety

The initial 15 feet hold some crumbly sections—move deliberately to avoid knocking rock onto your partner. The large block toward the left in the mid-climb can shift, so handle it firmly but with care. Always double-check slings on tree anchors for rappelling, as these natural anchors bear the entire descent load.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length95 feet

Local Tips

Expect loose rock in the first 15 feet—avoid unnecessary contact to prevent dislodging.

Carry a #5 cam to back up the wide section, though many climbers manage with a #4 and #3.

Belay at the comfortable tree after the crux to divide the climb and watch your partner safely.

Advance early to avoid chilly afternoon winds on the exposed West Ridge.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated a solid 5.9, Hypothermia offers traditional climbing that feels quite committed due to the somewhat suspect rock and intense crux moves. The grade is not soft; the crux demands good technique, especially on underclings and finger jams. The protection is generally reliable, but the loose block near the left jog adds caution. For locals, it fits a similar challenge level to other short, steep climbs in Eldorado where mental focus is key.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack up to #4 cam, with an optional #5 for the wider crack section. Bring slings for tree anchors used to rappel from the top. Nuts provide bomber placements especially at the crux finger crack.

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Tags

finger crack
loose rock
overhang crux
tree belay
short trad route