HomeClimbingHow The West Was Won

How The West Was Won

Alamosa, Colorado United States
hueco climbing
pocket holds
single pitch
sport
granite
slab finish
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
How The West Was Won
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"How The West Was Won offers climbers a focused 5.9 sport climb featuring excellent pocket climbing on solid rock. Located in Penitente Canyon, this route blends accessible challenge with rewarding movement on a single pitch."

How The West Was Won

Set within the rugged contours of Penitente Canyon in Colorado’s San Luis Valley, How The West Was Won offers a focused, engaging sport climb that speaks directly to climbers drawn to pocket-rich rock and thoughtful bolt placements. The approach follows a narrowing drainage that cuts through the landscape, inviting you to navigate around an occasional spring-fed trickle that teases the route with the faint sound of flowing water. This corridor channels the natural energy of the canyon, guiding you toward a striking wall spotted with deep huecos that promise satisfying hand jams and precise footwork. The climb itself is a single pitch that smoothly blends bold hueco sequences with a slender slab finish, requiring steady precision rather than brute force.

This route stands out for its balanced challenge: it’s accessible enough to welcome climbers looking to refine their pocket climbing technique, yet engaging enough to reward those who appreciate subtle rock features. The stone here is solid and dependable—granite that has earned the respect of those who’ve repeated the climb. Protection is straightforward with well-placed bolts, keeping your focus on movement and flow rather than gear management. The rock’s texture invites tactile exploration, as your fingers find comfortable, often inviting pockets that almost 'call out' for connection.

The setting itself reinforces the climb’s appeal. Penitente Canyon’s semi-arid environment layers warm sunlight with cool shade as the day moves across the sky, offering varied conditions that keep the experience pleasant across seasons. Whether you arrive in early spring, catching the brisk energy of the warming sun, or in fall, when the air crisps but the rock stays dry and grippy, this route’s location rewards your timing with quiet solitude and panoramic views over the valley floor.

Approach is gentle enough to remain practical but keeps you grounded, negotiating rocky creek beds and open spaces that transition seamlessly into the climbing zone. A light scramble around the small stream in wetter months may be necessary, so sturdy footwear is advised. Bring enough water and dress for fluctuating mountain weather, as conditions can shift quickly amid the canyon’s exposed and sheltered sections.

Understand that though this climb carries a moderate rating of 5.9, the grading feels thoughtfully aligned with its technical demands. The crux involves a subtle balance of body positioning on the slab and strategic use of pockets on the hueco wall, making it a rewarding climb for those keen on finesse over power. It’s a fantastic gateway route for athletes wanting to explore pocket climbing on sound rock while soaking in the vast Colorado outdoors.

In essence, How The West Was Won encapsulates the spirit of sport climbing here: clear, approachable, and steeped in natural character. It’s a route that invites you to tune in to the rock’s rhythm and rise steadily, bolt by bolt, until you stand at the top with the canyon stretched out beneath you. Practical, inviting, and with a touch of adventure, it’s a line worth adding to your Colorado climbing itinerary.

Climber Safety

Be cautious of slick spots around the stream crossing during spring runoff; the rock can be slippery when wet. Also, watch for loose debris near the base if hiking after heavy rain.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Expect some scrambling around a small streamlet in spring; waterproof shoes help.

Best climbed in cooler parts of the day to avoid intense sun exposure on the slab.

Carry sufficient water—there’s no reliable source near the base.

Arrive early on weekends for solitude and better parking options.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.9, this route feels in tune with its technical approach. The crux centers on precise movement through pocket sequences and a delicate slab finish, demanding controlled technique without overly taxing strength. Compared to other local routes of similar grade, it leans into finesse rather than raw power.

Gear Requirements

Bring a handful of quickdraws and a rope suitable for a single pitch. The bolts are well placed, so minimal trad gear is necessary.

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Tags

hueco climbing
pocket holds
single pitch
sport
granite
slab finish