"Hoot offers a steep, one-pitch trad climb on the iconic Buttermilk Crags. It challenges climbers with a mix of pocketed bolts, an undercling crux, and a slabby traverse, all within a serene high desert setting near Bishop."
Hoot presents a sharp and direct line on the rugged Buttermilk Crags, carving a brief yet memorable route that tests your skill with traditional gear and modest sport protection. The climb rises steeply in just one pitch over 40 feet, inviting you to engage with a sequence that starts with a punchy move upward to find a solid pocket bolt. From here, the route challenges you with a dynamic undercling, an unexpected move that demands precise footwork and balance. The traverse to the right feels like an elegant dance along the vertical slab, ending at a second bolt pocket. This section of the wall is defined by textured granite surfaces that cling with chalky friction under your fingertips while the slab rewards steady nerves and controlled movement.
Located on the quieter Windy Wall, tucked behind the more heavily trafficked faces, the climb offers a sense of calm and connection with the high desert environment around Bishop. The Buttermilk Crags sit in the eastern shadows of the Sierra Nevada, where morning sun warms the rock slowly, making late mornings through early afternoons ideal climbing windows. The climbing area is exposed but not unrelenting; the wall's orientation allows enough shade to give some relief in the heat.
Protection on Hoot blends the boldness of traditional placements with the confidence of fixed bolts, featuring two bolts along the climb paired with two hangers for your anchor. This combo enhances safety without stripping away the adventurous spirit of placing gear where it counts. Climbers will find active edges and pockets that require a focused approach to pro placement, maintaining engagement with the rock's natural contours.
Approaching Windy Wall means following the well-worn Buttermilk trail system, featuring rocky footing and manageable elevation gain—an accessible 15-minute walk from the main parking areas. Keep an eye out for shifting winds, which often freshen in the afternoon and add an alert edge to your climb. Plan your hydration carefully, as water sources are scarce in this arid region, and sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber will be your best allies on the slab transitions.
Whether you’re sharpening your 5.8 repertoire or looking for a solid but brief pitch to fit between other objectives, Hoot offers a compelling mix of natural movement and moderate commitment. With just enough exposure to thrill and enough security to reassure, this route is a snapshot of what makes the Buttermilk Crags a must-visit hub for trad climbers of all experience levels.
While the fixed bolts aid protection, the slab finish demands careful foot placement and concentration. Loose rock is minimal but double-check all gear placements and stay alert to wind gusts on exposed sections.
Start your climb mid-morning to avoid the peak sun and benefit from the wall’s gentle shade.
Bring hydration for the approach and climb; water sources are limited near Buttermilk Crags.
Sticky-soled climbing shoes make the slab moves more manageable, especially through the traverse.
Expect afternoon winds to pick up; pack a light windbreaker to stay comfortable at the base.
The climb features two bolts on the route and two fixed hangers at the anchor. Traditional protection is necessary, with placements required in natural features alongside these bolts.
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