Stained Glass/Flyboy Boulder Area – Buttermilks Boulder Climbing in California

Bishop, California
north-facing
shade
high desert
classic problems
Buttermilks
V1 to V11
cool rock
varied difficulty
Length: 15-20 ft
Type: Boulder
Stars
Pitches
bouldering
Protected Place
Buttermilk Country
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Located just north of the Birthday Boulders in Buttermilk Country, the Stained Glass/Flyboy Area offers climbers a collection of shaded north-facing boulders featuring classic problems like Stained Glass and Flyboy. With a comfortable approach and a range of challenges from beginner-friendly V1s to formidable V10+ projects, this area is a prime destination for boulderers seeking quality climbs in a cooler setting."

Stained Glass/Flyboy Boulder Area – Buttermilks Boulder Climbing in California

Located just north of the well-known Birthday Boulders and tucked behind the distinctive formation known as The Loaf, the Stained Glass/Flyboy Area offers climbers a focused experience on some of the region’s acclaimed classic problems. This cluster of boulders sits at about 6,500 feet elevation, providing a cool refuge with north-facing walls that shield you from the full afternoon sun—perfect for those blistering California summer days when shade becomes a prized commodity. Approaching the area is straightforward yet rewarding: from the main Birthday Boulder parking, a short uphill trek past the Birthday Boulders and around The Loaf places you directly in the beating heart of the action.

This sector is celebrated for its impressive selection of lines that range from approachable V1s like Five and Dime, which serves as an ideal warmup or confidence booster, up to more challenging projects such as Stained Glass itself and the imposing Flyboy SDS. The Flyboy problems are particularly notable, featuring a spectrum of difficulties that bring technical finesse and raw power into play, attracting climbers eager to test their limits. The brilliance of these north-facing climbs is that they stay pleasantly cool and grippy even when the sun blazes overhead elsewhere in the Buttermilks. It's this practical advantage, combined with the quality of stone and variety of moves, that keeps climbers coming back season after season.

Many regard Flyboy Arete (V5) and East Side Story (V3) as must-try climbs for anyone seeking a mix of technical and dynamic movement. The Fall Guy and Haroun & the Sea of Stories push the upper boundary of difficulty here, challenging even seasoned boulderers with their powerful sequences and technical cruxes. If you’re chasing high-quality challenges amid a setting that balances ruggedness with accessibility, this area delivers on every front.

For those planning their visit, the overall vibe remains classic Buttermilk country—sun-drenched high desert with consistent friction and a community atmosphere that blends weekend warriors and elite senders. The short hike to the boulders carries a gentle incline with well-trodden dirt paths, making it manageable for most fitness levels. The rock quality reflects the Buttermilk signature: solid, slightly abrasive volcanic tuff that demands focused footwork and precise body positioning.

While the area welcomes climbers year-round, the best conditions come during the cooler months: late fall through early spring offers cooler temperatures and more predictable weather. Carefully packing adequate pads, a brush for cleaning holds, and water is essential, as shade is limited to the boulders themselves, not the approach. The proximity to Bishop, California, also means overnight accommodations and gear shops aren’t far away—making it a practical basecamp for a multi-day trip exploring the greater Buttermilks region.

Whether you’re here to tick off classics like Stained Glass and Flyboy or chase your own projects, the Stained Glass/Flyboy Area balances excitement with an efficient approach and quality climbing surfaces. It’s a bouldering spot that gives you room to push your limits while soaking in the rugged high desert landscape that defines Eastern Sierra climbing. Bring your pads and your best movement skills—the Buttermilks welcome you with some of the finest—and coolest—boulder problems around.

Climber Safety

Watch your landings—many problems have uneven or rocky fall zones requiring careful pad placement and spotter attention. The approach involves slight uphill terrain with loose dirt; footwear with good traction is recommended. Summer heat can be intense, so plan climbs for shade hours to avoid overheating.

Area Details

TypeBoulder
Pitchesbouldering
Length15-20 feet

Local Tips

Approach from Birthday Boulder parking and head uphill past The Loaf to access the area.

Boulders face north, offering shade and better friction on hot days.

Bring multiple pads to protect landings, as some problems have tricky fall zones.

Best climbed in cooler months - spring through fall can get hot with limited shade on the approach.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The Stained Glass/Flyboy Area features a wide difficulty range from approachable V1s like Five and Dime to challenging V10+ projects such as Stained Glass itself. The ratings here generally feel fair, with some classic problems offering a blend of technique and power that tests climbers without harsh sandbagging. Compared to other Buttermilk sectors, this zone leans toward maintaining consistent friction and good conditions thanks to its north-facing aspects.

Gear Requirements

From the Birthday Boulder parking area, a short uphill hike north takes you behind The Loaf to reach the Stained Glass/Flyboy cluster. Pads and a brush are essential for both protection and cleaning, given the quality and nature of the rock.

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Tags

north-facing
shade
high desert
classic problems
Buttermilks
V1 to V11
cool rock
varied difficulty