"Hobo Route is a compact 40-foot sport climb on smooth granite flakes at Hobo Tower. It offers a moderate 5.8 challenge culminating in a grainy mantle crux—perfect for climbers ready to engage with desert friction and precise movement."
Hobo Route presents a straightforward but rewarding climb on the polished granite of Hobo Tower, located within the High Desert region of California. Its 40-foot pitch challenges climbers with a unique blend of smooth flakes that shift subtly under your touch — some broad enough to test your balance and body positioning. As you ascend, the texture of the rock changes, introducing a slightly steeper section near the top that requires a measured effort to overcome a grainy mantle finish. This transition feels almost like the rock itself urging you upward, shifting from forgiving holds to a more committed move that rewards patience and control.
The route features four lead bolts spaced to offer security while encouraging active climbing on natural features. Anchored by a two-bolt chain, the belay setup is reliable and straightforward, ideal for a quick tag on this classic 5.8 sport line. Hobo Route’s compact length and moderate grade make it an accessible option for those looking to sharpen their sport climbing skills in a desert setting that demands respect for the sun and the dry air.
Access to Hobo Tower is convenient but requires attention to terrain changes typical of the High Desert’s rugged formation. The approach moves through a blend of sandy trails and rocky outcrops, placing you directly at the base of the route without excessive scrambling. The surrounding area, known as the BMX Crags and Apple Valley Crags, offers a range of climbing challenges, making this spot a worthy anchor point for a day of varied climbs.
For preparation, climbers should prioritize steady hydration and protection from the strong midday sun. A helmet is advised given occasional loose flakes and desert grit. Footwear that balances sensitivity with solid edging will help navigate the varnished flakes and subtle friction changes near the top. Timing your climb for morning or late afternoon sessions can offer cooler rock temperatures and less direct sunlight, improving grip and overall comfort.
Whether approaching as a warm-up or a standalone climb, Hobo Route delivers exposure to desert sport climbing at its honest, unembellished best. It’s a brief encounter with granite in a landscape that pushes climbers to read their rock with care and move deliberately. This climb stands as a reminder that sometimes, the simplest routes offer the most satisfying challenges.
The varnished flakes can be slick, especially if dusty or sandy. Stay aware of loose rock near the top section where the mantle crux occurs, and always double-check the two-bolt chain anchor for stability before lowering.
Start early or late to avoid peak sun exposure on the desert granite.
Wear shoes with good edging to handle the smooth, varnished flakes.
Carry enough water; the desert air dries you faster than expected.
Check the anchor before climbing; bolts are reliable but weathered.
The climb is protected by four fixed lead bolts spaced to encourage climbing on natural features, finishing with a two-bolt chain anchor for secure top-rope or rappel. No additional gear is necessary, making it an excellent sport climb for quick draws and a harness.
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