"Black Backside provides a concentrated dose of technical crack climbing set on the quieter side of California’s Black Corridor. Ideal for trad enthusiasts, this area offers short, rewarding routes with reliable top-rope anchors and a distinct high desert atmosphere."
Black Backside, tucked behind the rugged Black Corridor in California’s High Desert, offers a focused but rewarding experience for climbers who appreciate sharp crack climbs with a straightforward vibe. This tucked-away sector sits at approximately 3,124 feet elevation, set within the Horsemen's Center area near Apple Valley. Despite its modest size, Black Backside boasts an intimate collection of short crack routes that engage climbers looking for technical precision over sheer volume.
Approach this climbing area from the southern parking lot just beyond the fenced boundary. The terrain between the lot and the climbs is manageable, though a bit of scrambling is involved if you attempt to access it from the north. A pair of rusted but reliable mussy hooks—offering fixed top-rope anchors—stand out as useful features aiding safe climbing and descent. These fixed gear points make it easier for climbers to work on their technique or set up secure top ropes, especially around the two main routes available.
The rock here encourages crack climbing skills; climbers familiar with finger to hand jams will find these routes rewarding. Among the classic climbs is the 'Standard Ham' (5.8), a well-regarded route that challenges your crack technique with a solid grade. Though limited in number, the focused selection keeps the climbing intense and engaging. Besides the physical challenge, climbers can soak in the quiet desert environment that sharpens focus and rewards determination.
Weather is a critical factor to consider, as the high desert climate delivers significant temperature swings across seasons. Prime climbing periods lean towards the cooler months, providing a comfortable window from fall through spring. Summer heat can become intense and demands early starts or late-afternoon sessions to avoid the harsh sun and heat exhaustion. Early morning shadows and late afternoon shade give certain routes brief relief during warmer times. It’s wise to bring plenty of water, sun protection, and be prepared for a desert environment that shifts quickly from dry heat to chilly blue skies.
Access to Black Backside is straightforward but limited—parking is best at the southern lot, with a short hike to reach the crags. The approach trails are unpaved and can be dusty, typical of the high desert’s sparse vegetation and sandy soil. Expect some easy scrambling and routefinding, but no technical trail difficulties. This makes Black Backside ideal for climbers who want a quick, rewarding session away from crowded parks.
The climbing area is part of the larger Horsemen’s Center collection of crags, where the environment feels remote yet accessible. The back side of the Black Corridor is perfect for climbers who appreciate focused trad crack climbs without the noise of busier destinations. While rock type specifics aren’t listed, the presence of crack lines speaks to predominantly solid, clean rock features ideal for experienced protection placement.
To make the most of your visit, come prepared with a traditional rack suited for crack climbing, including an assortment of cams and nuts to protect your lead. The presence of mussy hooks reduces the need for complex top-rope rigging but never substitute thorough protection on lead climbs. Downclimbing or rappelling options aren't heavily detailed for this area, so plan accordingly and be cautious about retreat strategies.
In all, Black Backside offers a slice of desert climbing focused on technical crack skills, a refreshing alternative for climbers who seek short but meaningful objectives away from sprawling sport crags. The quiet environment, combined with practical access and manageable weather windows, makes it an excellent choice for a half-day adventure or a targeted training session. Whether you’re tuning your crack jams or just after a desert escape, Black Backside delivers with equal parts challenge and clarity.
Exercise caution on approach due to loose rock and scrambling sections, especially if accessing from the north. While mussy hooks aid top-ropes, always double-check anchors and plan your descent carefully due to limited fixed rappel stations.
Best access is from the southern parking lot just beyond the fenced area.
The approach includes some scrambling—avoid the northern access which is more difficult.
Visit during cooler months or early mornings in summer to avoid desert heat.
Bring plenty of water and sun protection; the high desert climate can be extreme.
The area features a pair of mussy hooks serving as fixed top-rope anchors, facilitating safer climbing on two main routes. A traditional rack focusing on cams and nuts designed for crack placements is essential; fixed gear beyond the mussy hooks is minimal, so bring a solid trad rack.
Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.