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Hex Route at Mammoth Crest: A Classic 5.9 Trad Alpine Challenge

Mammoth Lakes, California United States
crack climbing
dihedral
alpine
single pitch
granite
5.9
trad gear
3-bolt anchor
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hex Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hex Route presents a focused 5.9 trad climb on a clean granite dihedral at Mammoth Crest. With solid cracks and reliable protection, it’s perfect for alpine climbers honing crack skills amid expansive Sierra views."

Hex Route at Mammoth Crest: A Classic 5.9 Trad Alpine Challenge

Hex Route climbs a striking dihedral on Mammoth Crest, offering a straightforward but satisfying pitch of alpine trad climbing that balances technical moves with steady protection. The crack system invites confident hand and finger jams, guiding you upward through solid granite that rewards steady effort. At about 80 feet, this single-pitch route unfolds within a natural corner where the rock reveals subtle variations in angle and friction. Staying to the shallow corner on the right presents a consistent 5.9 challenge, testing precise footwork and controlled movement without pushing into outright strenuous territory. Alternatively, bypassing this section on the left eases the technical demands slightly, offering an accessible option for climbers dialing in their comfort on alpine crack climbs.

The approach leads through the high country of the Sierra Eastside, near Mammoth Lakes, where the air thins and crisp winds occasionally cut through the quiet mountain atmosphere. The rock itself feels alive under your hands—the granite’s solid texture pushing back with tactile feedback as you secure gear in the clean cracks. Protection is straightforward with a standard rack up to 2 inches, though bringing a 3-inch piece can add peace of mind for wider placements. The route finishes at a secure 3-bolt ring anchor, making descent controlled and sure-footed.

This climb sits within a section of Mammoth Crest that feels both wild and accessible, offering panoramic views of rugged peaks and alpine valleys that surround you as you move upward. The granite faces reflect the sun warmly during the afternoon, while early morning ascents benefit from cooler conditions and shadows that sharpen the features beneath your feet.

Hex Route demands focused technique without unnecessary complication. It’s an excellent pursuit for climbers looking to sharpen trad skills in an alpine setting, blending a clear physical effort with rewarding exposure. The solid protection system combined with a moderate grade encourages both confidence and encouragement — a climb that tests you but never punishes.

In planning your ascent, anticipate a brief approach featuring moderate elevation gain over uneven terrain. The dry Sierra air calls for proper hydration and sturdy footwear suited for trail and rock travel. Timing your climb to avoid the midday sun ensures better friction and a more comfortable experience. Whether you're preparing to send your first 5.9 or simply adding a quality pitch to your alpine itinerary, Hex Route delivers a pure trad climbing experience wrapped in the raw beauty of the Sierra Eastside.

Climber Safety

Watch your placements in the upper sections; while protection is generally solid, some spots require attention to gear sizing. The exposed nature of the crest means wind can pick up quickly, so be prepared for changing conditions. The fixed 3-bolt ring anchor is reliable, but double-check rigging before descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Approach in the early morning to avoid afternoon heat and improve friction on the granite.

Bring a rack spanning small cams to 2-inch pieces; consider a 3-inch for added security.

Hydrate well before and during the climb; Sierra alpine conditions can be deceptively dry.

Wear sturdy trail runners or light approach shoes—trail access involves uneven terrain with some rock hopping.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Hex Route feels true to form, with sustained crack climbing that tests precise technique rather than brute power. The slight variation if taking the left line makes the grade feel a touch softer, but overall the climb demands focused foot placements and solid jams. Compared to other classic trad climbs nearby, it’s accessible yet engaging—no hidden cruxes but a steady challenge.

Gear Requirements

Standard rack up to 2 inches covers the route nicely, with a 3-inch piece recommended for optional wider placements. The climb finishes at a fixed 3-bolt ring anchor, ensuring a smooth and secure rappel or lowering.

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Tags

crack climbing
dihedral
alpine
single pitch
granite
5.9
trad gear
3-bolt anchor