"Located just east of McLeod Lake near Mammoth Lakes, this granite wall offers a cooler, less trafficked climbing option to Horseshoe Slabs. Featuring solid 5.10 to 5.11 climbs on quality granite with an adventurous approach, McLeod Lake is a prime summer destination for climbers seeking shade and solitude."
Sitting just east of the placid waters of McLeod Lake, this lesser-known granite wall rises quietly over a small ridge, offering climbers a robust alternative to the busier Horseshoe Slabs nearby. The rock here is solid granite with a few patches of dirt, demanding respect and careful movement rather than flashy gym-style jamming. The wall’s east-facing aspect means it catches early sunlight but retains a cool, shaded atmosphere for much of the day in summer, perfect for mid-day ascents when the heat of the Sierra can wear on you elsewhere. However, be prepared for lingering snow at the base well into late June, a reminder of this area’s elevation at around 9,300 feet.
Approaching this hidden gem requires a bit of navigation. From Mammoth Lakes, follow Main Street onto Lake Mary Road, ending at the Horseshoe Lake parking lot. The trailhead leads southwest toward McLeod Lake, where a subtle side trail near the Catch and Release sign guides you over small rocks and past a fallen tree. The path gains clarity as it follows a buried water pipe, marked by a silver post with yellow bands that signals a left fork onto a faint drainage channel. Cross a usually dry stream and hike left along broken rock to reach the main cliff band. The striking arete–home to the classic climb The Gathering (5.11b)–is an unmistakable landmark and a hallmark of the area.
The climbing routes here ask for finesse and concentrated effort rather than brute force. Among the standout lines are Up The Junction (5.10a), Cool For Cats (5.10b), Highlander (5.10c), and The Gathering (5.11b), all of which have earned solid three and a half star ratings. Their consistent difficulty stays in the 5.10 to low 5.11 range, offering a solid challenge for intermediate to advanced climbers comfortable on granite but without plunging into expert territory. Due to the quality of rock and the nature of the routes, climbers should expect some dirt in places, but this only adds to the character rather than detracting from the experience.
The setting blends ruggedness with accessibility. While McLeod Lake isn't as heavily trafficked as Horseshoe Slabs, it carries a quiet charm where you can connect with the Eastern Sierra’s wild spirit without the crowd. The weather leans toward classic high Sierra conditions — sunny days with cooler mornings and evening chills. Its elevation lends itself to a summer climbing window that typically stretches beyond June, although spring arrivals should watch for melting snow at the base.
For gear, the granite demands solid protection placement; while the description doesn’t specify, climbers should come prepared for traditional gear and potentially some fixed anchors. The approach trail is a moderate trek requiring good footwear and route-finding skills, but the payoff is a peaceful stretch of high-quality granite just a short hop from Mammoth Lakes.
Whether you’re drawn to the challenge of The Gathering’s overhang or prefer the steady rhythm of Up The Junction, McLeod Lake offers an inviting space for climbers who want to blend adventure with manageable approach, cool shade, and solid stone. For those who find Horseshoe Slabs overrun or simply crave a fresh granite face, this area comes through with a practical balance of rugged terrain, well-rated routes, and that unmistakable Sierra air.
Base of the wall can remain snow-covered well into June, which may complicate access and footing. Additionally, some sections of the granite are dirty, so carefully test holds and placements before committing. Approach trails involve crossing a usually dry stream and a faint path, so good navigation skills and cautious footing are advised.
Expect snow at the base of the wall until late June—plan your trip timing accordingly.
The wall faces east, providing shade during the hotter parts of summer days.
Watch for the silver post with yellow bands on the approach trail—it's a key navigational marker.
If Horseshoe Slabs are crowded, McLeod Lake provides a quieter and cooler alternative.
Climbers should bring a traditional rack appropriate for granite cracks and face climbs. While some fixed anchors may be present, expect to place your own protection on these solid but occasionally dirty granite routes.
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