"Heretic is a compact, technical climb on Yukon’s granite, threading delicate crimps and an inviting arete. Perfect for climbers seeking a precise 5.10c challenge in a remote northern setting."
Heretic stands as a compelling single-pitch climb carved into the rugged granite faces of Grand Central Station, deep in the Yukon Territory. This sport and top-rope route lays down 49 feet of precise, technical climbing that challenges fingers and feet alike. From the moment you leave the ground on the right side, the route demands attention to small crimps scattered across the slab, inviting you to test your balance and control as you traverse leftward. As you reach the first bolt, the climb opens up to an inviting arete—this natural edge becomes your pathway upward, encouraging an efficient hug of the rock's contours. Careful exploration for subtle holds on the left side can ease your progression, revealing tucked-away grips that reward a keen eye.
Situated at 60.68545 latitude and -135.07044 longitude, Heretic is a gateway into a remote wilderness climbing experience where the atmosphere is as raw as the granite itself. The climb’s exposure to northern light means cool conditions can prevail even in warmer months, making it a comfortable challenge for those prepared with solid shoes and steady chalk application. Climbers often find the protection straightforward, with five bolts placed to provide security, and a sturdy anchor at the top allowing safe top-roping or sport lead activity.
To arrive here, access traces through the Rock Gardens sector of Grand Central Station, a striking array of rock formations that demands respect and offers solitude rarely found closer to urban areas. The approach is unassuming, yet the remoteness whispers a quiet promise of adventure and discovery. Plan for footwear capable of edging and smearing, bring hydration to offset the crisp, fresh air, and schedule your attempt for the later morning hours to take advantage of warming sun without overheating.
Heretic’s 5.10c rating reflects a climb where smooth technique and focus on small handholds make all the difference. The crux comes as you negotiate the subtle leftward migration on the face, where body positioning must be precise and confident. Climbers returning from local Yukon routes will recognize the balance of endurance and technical movement here, finding a route that offers both challenge and satisfaction without excessive commitment.
Whether you top-rope for an afternoon session or push the lead for your personal best, Heretic rewards with a brief but intense dose of Yukon’s climbing character. Her tactile granite, the biting northern breeze, and the sense of climbing away from the crowds meld into an experience that offers both thrill and thoughtful engagement. As the arete beckons upward, it’s a test of steady nerves and sharp focus, perfect for those looking to sharpen their sport climbing skills in a setting that commands respect and delivers quiet triumph.
While the protection is well-placed, the route’s exposed arete emphasizes maintaining three points of contact at all times. The granite can be slick in damp conditions, so check weather forecasts and avoid climbing after rain to reduce slip hazards.
Start on the right side of the face, moving carefully across small crimps before reaching the bolt line.
Look closely along the arete for hidden holds on the left that can ease your upward moves.
Approach in the morning to enjoy mild temperatures and optimal lighting on the route.
Use climbing shoes capable of precise edging; the granite demands good footwork.
Five bolts protect the route evenly, allowing confident clipping and secure top anchors make for a solid sport climbing experience. Minimal gear requirements focus preparation on skillful movement rather than complex protection.
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