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Heel Toe n' Go - A Bold Trad Climb on Okanagan's Tower of Tails

Okanagan, Canada
offwidth crack
finger crack
pumpy face
single pitch
overhung
Okanagan
trad gear
top rope anchor
Length: 110 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Heel Toe n' Go
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Heel Toe n' Go offers a 110-foot test of strength and finesse on Tower of Tails’ north face. Starting with a demanding offwidth crack and finishing along delicate finger cracks, this route challenges climbers to blend power with precision in one intense pitch."

Heel Toe n' Go - A Bold Trad Climb on Okanagan's Tower of Tails

Heel Toe n' Go stands as a striking challenge on the north face of Tower of Tails, an imposing formation in British Columbia’s Okanagan region. This single-pitch, 110-foot trad route demands a full blend of power and finesse, starting with an overhung offwidth crack that dares you to commit to its physical demands. The climb begins with a raw, dynamic jamming and layback sequence that pushes your upper body and mind, soon easing into a more manageable hand and thin hand crack where rhythm can be found. As you push upward, the rock’s texture shifts beneath your fingertips, from gritty slabs to steeper, pumpy face holds that require precise footwork and controlled breathing.

You’ll find a moment of respite on a stemming rest, a brief sanctuary before tackling the crux near the lip of the climb. Here, the rock overhangs sharply, and those trusting a top rope must be cautious not to swing out wide, as it can pull you away from the protection and amplify the feeling of exposure. Beyond this, the route follows a sequence of smaller finger cracks and face holds that guide you towards a large tree perched on a ledge above—a natural finishing point where you can pause and take in the rugged surroundings.

The approach to Heel Toe n' Go is straightforward but deliberate: from the road, circle to the north side of Tower of Tails where this prominent, wide crack splits the rock face. The terrain around the base is rocky but manageable, and the GPS coordinates (49.48356, -120.38187) offer precise navigation in this wilderness area.

Protection for this climb leans heavily on a solid rack of cams ranging from Black Diamond #0.3 to #4, with larger cams like a #5 or even #6 recommended for those who prefer to avoid the offwidth start on lead. Setting up a top rope is efficient here, requiring a large cordelette and cams #2 and #3 Camalots to anchor securely.

Heel Toe n' Go sits within an area defined by wild, spacious backdrops and a natural quiet that invites focus. Tower of Tails itself is a raw, rugged backdrop—exposed faces, clean lines, and a quiet that amplifies the noise of your effort. The climb’s north-facing orientation means it’s best tackled during warmer months when the shade keeps the rock cool but dry, with early summer or late fall offering optimal conditions away from intense heat.

Descending from the climb involves an easy walk-off to the base, but caution is warranted on loose rocks and uneven footing, especially after wet conditions. This route blends strenuous physicality with technical footwork in a way that will appeal to experienced trad climbers looking for a compelling, compact challenge in a stunning setting.

Whether you’re gearing up for your first offwidth or looking to sharpen your crack technique, Heel Toe n' Go delivers a powerful experience that rewards smart tactics and steady nerves. Remember hydration, solid footwear with sticky rubber, and careful protection placements to make this climb as much a test of strategy as strength.

Climber Safety

Watch your body position on the overhanging lip—falls on TR can lead to larger swings away from protection. Ensure solid anchors with double-checks on cordelette placement and cam sizes. Loose rock can be present on the approach and descent, requiring focused foot placement.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length110 feet

Local Tips

Approach from the road and wrap around to the tower’s north side to locate the wide crack.

Use sticky-soled climbing shoes to balance on the pumpy face sections.

Hydrate fully before the climb; the physical nature of the offwidth and layback demands stamina.

Be extra cautious of swinging away from the wall near the overhanging lip, especially on TR.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10d, this climb tests endurance and technique. The offwidth start can feel bold and physical, while the face sections demand precise foot placements. The grade is accurate, with a crux at the overhung lip that requires controlled movement to avoid starfish swings. Compared to nearby trad routes, Heel Toe n' Go is a solid step up in complexity but rewarding for those versed in crack climbing.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack from BD #0.3 to #4, plus options for larger cams (#5 and #6) to handle the tricky offwidth start. For top roping, a large cordelette with #2 and #3 Camalots will secure an anchor on the ledge above.

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Tags

offwidth crack
finger crack
pumpy face
single pitch
overhung
Okanagan
trad gear
top rope anchor