"Head Waggle offers a direct, friction-rich line on solid Unaweep granite with just enough challenge to engage intermediate climbers. This single-pitch sport climb balances smooth slab climbing with brief steeper sequences, making it an ideal introduction to the Playground’s unique canyon walls."
Head Waggle offers a straightforward yet thoroughly satisfying ascent on the robust granite faces of Unaweep Canyon, carving a line that is both accessible and engaging. Situated within the Playground’s Hank's World sector, this single-pitch climb delivers a concise 60-foot push up a featured slab, where solid rock and thoughtful bolt placement blend into a seamless rhythm. From the base, the wall presents a gentle incline that invites climbers to read the granite’s texture—a mix of subtle edges and friction holds that dare you to trust your feet and maintain flow.
The climb begins with three well-spaced bolts guiding the route’s initial slab challenges, leading you to a large, comfortable ledge that acts as both a mental and physical breather. Here, the rock sharpens its angle and the route adopts a steeper, more demanding profile. Two additional bolts protect this final section, drawing attention to delicate footwork and precise hand placements on the cleaner granite face as you ascend toward a two-bolt anchor fit for solid ring-ins or belay setups.
Unaweep Canyon’s high desert environment frames this route in a combination of sun-bleached granite under a vast blue sky, with distant mesas and rugged canyon terrain stretching toward the horizon. The exposure is limited but enough to remind you of the canyon's wild character. The solid bolting means you won’t need to carry extra gear beyond your standard sport rack, an advantage for those aiming for a quick, focused outing.
Climbers will appreciate the route’s manageable rating of 5.8, which means it’s friendly enough for those sharpening their skills, while still offering subtle challenges that keep the rhythm interesting. The rock’s friction and the line’s natural flow require steady finesse more than brute strength. The approach is straightforward, with manageable scrambling to reach the base, and the area’s quiet atmosphere enhances the sense of being off the beaten path while still close to Grand Junction.
For a successful day on Head Waggle, plan your climb during cooler hours in spring or fall to avoid the midday desert heat. Bring adequate water, sturdy climbing shoes for friction on the slab, and sunscreen to protect against the canyon’s relentless sun. The short length also makes it easy to stack this climb with other routes in Hank’s World, maximizing your day in one of Colorado’s hidden gems for sport climbers. Gear up, trust the granite, and enjoy a pure, solid pitch in a remarkable setting.
The granite is solid, but the slab’s angle makes footwork essential for maintaining balance. Slippery conditions after rain can increase risk; wait for thoroughly dry rock before climbing. Additionally, the ledge offers a safe rest but watch for loose debris near the base.
Start early to beat the intense midday sun on the slab.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber to maximize friction on the granite slab.
Carry plenty of water as shade is limited on the climb.
Check the weather forecast—dry granite means the route is best after several dry days.
The route is secured by five bolts, offering straightforward protection without the need for additional trad gear. Two bolt anchors top the climb, perfect for setting up a top-rope or lowering.
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