"Hallucinogenic Blues challenges climbers with its straightforward right-facing corner, chimney jams, and a distinctive roof step on Turkey Rock’s granite. This 5.9 trad single-pitch provides a focused yet rewarding experience that blends technical moves with solid protection."
Hallucinogenic Blues offers a compelling introduction to the South Platte’s storied trad climbing scene, perched on the rugged granite faces of Turkey Rock. From the moment your hands grip the right-facing corner at the base, the climb demands focused attention combined with a steady sense of adventure. The first moves pull you directly upward, navigating a well-defined corner that feels both accessible and purposeful. As you near the imposing roof overhead, the route pushes you to step left, threading underneath to reach a chimney section where good hand jams provide solid holds and rhythm. Few routes capture the spirit of classic trad climbing in this way—practical, engaging, and just challenging enough to hold your focus without overwhelming.
This single-pitch 100-foot climb sits firmly in the 5.9 range, striking a balance between manageable technical moves and the mental game of trusting your gear placements. Protection is straightforward, with gear needed up to 4 inches, allowing for solid placements along the corner and chimney. The ledge at the top, shared with other well-known routes like The Fiend and Brain Cramps, offers a reliable anchor and a moment to appreciate the raw natural surroundings. With an average rating hovering just below three stars, dozens of climbers have contributed to this route’s reputation as a dependable, enjoyable day out in Colorado’s famed Turkey Rocks area.
Approaching Hallucinogenic Blues begins where Turkey Rock's network of trails converge, threading through granite formations that rise sharply from the forest floor. The access trail is well-marked but uneven, so sturdy shoes and attention to footing are essential. It typically takes 15 to 20 minutes to reach the base from the main parking area, winding past pine groves and glittering quartz veins that catch the sunlight and keep spirits high on the hike in.
This climb is best tackled in cooler months or early mornings during summer when the south-facing wall basks in sunlight but avoids the afternoon heat that can sap energy. As you climb, the granite absorbs and radiates heat, making the tactile experience of the rock almost alive, as though it challenges your grip with each move.
Safety is key on Hallucinogenic Blues; while the protection is reliable when placed carefully, the chimney demands exact hand jams to maintain security. Loose rock is minimal, but focus on clean placements will keep your experience enjoyable and injury-free. Additionally, the roof section requires balance and careful footwork as you transmogrify from corner to chimney on fairly tight terrain.
Local climbers recommend carrying a full trad rack with emphasis on cams up to 4 inches, gloves for the chimney section, and a lightweight helmet. Hydrate well and bring a quick snack to refuel at the ledge before rappelling or downclimbing. Planning a climb during shoulder seasons can mean avoided crowds and quieter approaches with a crisper mountain atmosphere.
In sum, Hallucinogenic Blues is a classic piece of the South Platte’s climbing heritage that mixes solid technique with just enough adventure. It rewards straightforward preparation and respects those who come ready to meet the rock head-on. Whether you’re rounding out your 5.9 repertoire or seeking a reliable introduction to trad in the area, this route stands as a memorable challenge marked by its direct line, dependable protection, and the quiet invitation of Colorado’s granite giants.
The chimney section calls for careful hand jams and clean placements—sloppy gear or hand positioning may result in a slip. Always check for loose rock at the roof step and wear a helmet to protect yourself during the ascent.
Starts are best early to avoid afternoon sun on the south-facing wall.
Use gloves to protect your hands during chimney jams.
Watch your footing stepping under the roof for solid balance.
Pack water and a snack for a quick rest on the top ledge before descent.
Bring a standard rack including cams up to 4 inches to comfortably protect the chimney and corner sections. Small to medium nuts complement the placements well, and a helmet is recommended for occasional loose stone.
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