HomeClimbingHalfway to Uranus

Halfway to Uranus: A Classic Trad Climb on Milky Way Wall

Fresno,California ,United States
trad
dihedral
multi-pitch
bolt-protected
arete
southern sierra
Grade: 5.9
Length: 500 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Halfway to Uranus
Aspect
South Facing

Halfway to Uranus

5.9, Trad

Fresno

California ,United States

Overview

"Halfway to Uranus offers four pitches of engaging 5.9 trad climbing on the Milky Way Wall. With a mix of bolt-protected face moves and gear-dependent dihedrals, this route balances bold action with smart gear choices, perfect for climbers looking for a serious Sierra adventure."

Halfway to Uranus: A Classic Trad Climb on Milky Way Wall

Halfway to Uranus stands out on the Milky Way Wall as a compelling four-pitch trad climb that rewards steady technique and thoughtful gear placement with a striking line through the Southern Sierra. This route begins at the far right edge of a prominent ledge perched just above a distinct streaked cliff band. The first pitch sets the tone, mixing a short left-facing dihedral with face moves past stout bolts that guide you toward a roomy dihedral where you’ll build your first solid gear belay. This pitch demands attention to balance and movement, offering exposure without unnecessary complication.

Pitches two and three unfold with a clever rhythm, climbing a right-hand dihedral protected by three bolts and solid traditional gear. After the third bolt, a dynamic move allows you to mantle over an arete using a flake and generous holds—a moment of wild transition that adds spurts of adrenaline to this otherwise measured route. From here, the line follows finger-friendly knobs and modest face climbing to an anchor that doubles as a link to the longer Crossing the Milky Way route for those seeking an extended adventure.

The final pitch eases up to the summit blocks with careful route-finding, climbing up and left to claim the skyline. Expect to place gear continually here, with small to mid-size cams sizing up to 3 inches and slings handy for securing your position on the plentiful knobs. The rock is generally sound, though the route’s character comes from its interaction with natural features demanding both patience and finesse.

The approach delivers its own charm, leading climbers into a quieter slice of the Sierra’s wild environment where the desert meets the granite. Trail access is moderate and well-marked, offering enough time to settle your mind in preparation for the climb ahead. This section of the Southern Sierra rewards early starts to avoid the heat, and it’s wise to carry ample water and sun protection, as shade is limited on the wall.

Halfway to Uranus is a solid 5.9 trad route well-suited for climbers comfortable on sustained multi-pitch climbs who appreciate a mixture of bolts and traditional protection. Whether you’re linking to Crossing the Milky Way or stopping at the top, this climb invites a balance of adventure and tactical execution, making it a memorable test piece in the Shuteye Ridge area.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock around the ledge sections and test gear placements carefully, especially on the upper pitches. The mantle over the arete demands controlled movement to avoid swings. Seasonal heat and sun exposure can lead to dehydration; prepare accordingly.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.9
TypeTrad
Pitches4
Length500 feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat the heat as most of the wall offers minimal shade.

Bring extra water and sun protection—exposure is significant during summer months.

Pay attention to your rope management when traversing the arete to avoid drag.

The approach trail is moderately steep but well-marked—give yourself 45 minutes from the trailhead.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here is straightforward but sustained, with a few bouldery moves and a dynamic mantle over the arete that add character. It feels true to grade with a crux that requires confident footwork and body position on smaller edges. Compared to other routes in Shuteye Ridge, it offers a satisfying challenge that is neither under- nor over-graded.

Gear Requirements

Recommended gear includes cams up to 3 inches, a set of nuts, slings for wrapping knobs, and a half dozen quickdraws to clip bolts and reduce rope drag. Be prepared for both secure gear placements and bolt clipping, especially on pitches two and three.

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Tags

trad
dihedral
multi-pitch
bolt-protected
arete
southern sierra