"Hair of the Dog is a brief but demanding 25-foot trad climb at Whiskey Rocks North, featuring a tight handcrack roof and an awkward corner section. Ideal for climbers seeking a quick burst of technical handcrack climbing near Goose Creek campground."
Hair of the Dog stakes its claim as a concise yet rewarding trad climb on the rugged faces of Whiskey Rocks North, just a few miles from Goose Creek and the South Platte. This route’s defining feature is a tight handcrack roof that tests your finger strength and commitment before easing into a corner with an awkward handcrack, demanding precise technique and steady footwork. Though the climb measures only 25 feet, every move counts, making it a perfect quick mission for climbers seeking concentrated technical exposure without the length.
The rock’s rough texture grips your fingers and shoes alike, amplifying each delicate move as you negotiate the shifting crack widths. The hand-sized protection placements require careful gear selection, as no fixed anchors await at the top. This lack of a permanent anchor calls for extra attention to your approach and retreat strategy, underscoring the route’s bold but accessible character.
The surrounding environment echoes the route’s no-frills appeal: sparse vegetation brushes the edges of the modest cliff band, while the crisp Colorado air carries sounds of the nearby creek weaving through Goose Creek campground. Approaching Hair of the Dog involves a short but uneven walk from the parking area, weaving through scattered talus fields and chaparral that test your balance before you reach the base.
Timing your climb for the cooler morning or late afternoon hours can make all the difference, as the sun heats the rock quickly during midday. This climb’s east-facing wall catches sufficient early light to warm those cold Colorado dawns while shading you from the afternoon blaze.
Though short, the route’s 5.9 rating holds true here, with a firm crux within the roof’s cramped confines that may surprise first-timers expecting a mellow handcrack. The move transitions that follow demand smooth technique and patience, rewarding practice and a calm mindset. Climbers familiar with local classics will find Hair of the Dog a worthy skill refresher and a fun teaser for sharper fingerwork before venturing out on longer multi-pitch routes.
Pack a rack focused on hand-sized cams—tips suggest leaving behind smaller pieces and relying on solid placements here. Water and hydration are essential, particularly in summer when temperatures climb and the nearby creek offers no guarantee of reliable access. Clear your schedule for this one; its brevity encourages quick sends, but the route deserves respect and a thoughtful approach.
To get there, leave Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Campground and follow well-marked trails toward Whiskey Rocks North. GPS coordinates at 39.22001 N, -105.33287 W will bring you within yards. Prepare for loose footing on the approach and plan your descent carefully, as no top anchors mean a cautious downclimb back to the base is your safest option.
Hair of the Dog provides a sharp burst of traditional climbing challenge in an unassuming setting — a burst of grit and technique that lets climbers sharpen their edge in a brief, intense encounter.
No anchor is fixed at the top; climbers should be confident in downclimbing their gear placements and aware of loose blocks near the base. Loose rock on the approach and descent demands cautious footwork.
Approach trail is uneven—wear sturdy shoes for balance on loose rock and talus.
Tackle the climb in early morning or late afternoon to avoid harsh sun on the rock surface.
Pack water and keep hydrated; summer heat can be intense despite proximity to the creek.
Prepare for a careful downclimb as the route lacks a fixed top anchor.
Hand-sized cams are essential for protection; avoid smaller pieces as placements require solid modulation. Note there is no fixed anchor at the top, so plan your descent accordingly.
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