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Guide's Route on Lower Mother's Buttress: A Grand Junction Trad Challenge

Grand Junction, Colorado United States
off-width
multi-pitch
granite
helmet recommended
scrambling
rope drag management
Length: 670 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
6
Location
Guide's Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Guide's Route rises boldly above Lower Mother's Buttress, inviting trad climbers into a six-pitch journey across solid Unaweep granite. With a technical start, a mixed hike-scramble midsection, and a tricky off-width finale, this climb offers a rewarding challenge well suited to experienced leaders eager for varied crack climbing and route-finding on one of Grand Junction’s iconic granite faces."

Guide's Route on Lower Mother's Buttress: A Grand Junction Trad Challenge

Set against the stark granite walls of Unaweep Canyon, Guide's Route offers climbers a compelling blend of technical trad moves and rugged mountaineering terrain that keeps the senses sharp and the adrenaline flowing. This six-pitch line ascends a commanding arete directly above Lower Mother's Buttress, delivering a climb that balances precise crack work, bold face moves, and a final section that demands confident scrambling skills. Beginning from the base, most climbers tackle the approach pitch known as "Cowabunga," an appropriate warm-up that sets the tone for the route's varied challenges. As you progress, expect the rock to shift subtly in texture and angle, demanding attention to foot placement and steady gear placements on the abundant, solid Unaweep granite.

Once past the initial pitches, the route loosens into a mixed mode where climbing transitions to a hike-scramble hybrid — a deceptive interlude before the last 80 feet push toward the summit. The final pitch, rated around 5.7, is often tricky to locate for first-timers; it starts with a short, vertical crack and then forces a traverse rightward onto a sweeping off-width crack that arcs upward. This segment tests not only technical skill but also route-finding finesse, rewarding those who read the rock well.

Despite rumors from local shops about rockfall damage on the upper third, the route remains solid and climbable, rewarding those prepared and equipped with helmets and experience managing rope drag and directional protection. The cruxes pull from all disciplines—hand jams, face holds, and off-widths—making Guide's Route a compelling challenge for intermediate to advanced leaders who can place a varied rack including TCUs and large Camalots. The setting adds to the experience: the dry, exposed rock faces of Unaweep reflect fierce sunlight, while the canyon below stretches expansive, commanding attention between moves.

Preparation means more than just physical readiness. The approach to Lower Mother's Buttress requires navigation through rough, semi-arid terrain where heat can build quickly. Early starts help avoid midday sun exposure and the loose rock sections where caution is key. Helmets are a must, not just from potential falling debris but to protect from the occasional sharp granite edges. Technical gear should include a wide range of cam sizes, plenty of slings for extending placements, and readiness for off-width climbing techniques. For those eager to push beyond single-pitch sport climbs, Guide's Route delivers a tangible sense of commitment and accomplishment wrapped in the rugged heart of Colorado climbing.

This route is not for beginners; its mix of climbing styles, lengthy pitches, and shifting terrain rewards those confident in trad techniques and route finding. But for those ready to engage with the rock fully, Guide's Route stands as a robust tribute to the varied character of Unaweep granite and the demanding beauty of Grand Junction's outdoor climbing scene.

Climber Safety

The rock is generally solid but loose rock corridors appear on the upper section; a helmet is mandatory. The leader must know proper directional gear placement to keep ropes clear of these loose areas. Expect some sections where rockfall risk is higher, particularly after heavy weather or freeze-thaw cycles.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches6
Length670 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the intense midday sun heating the exposed granite walls.

Bring plenty of water and sun protection for the dry canyon environment.

Use directional gear placements extensively to prevent rope drag and reduce fall potential.

Be prepared to transition into hiking and scrambling after the fifth pitch before tackling the crux off-width.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9-, Guide's Route sits on the lower end of moderate difficulty but demands more than just technical skill. While the grade itself feels accessible for experienced climbers, the route’s complexity comes from its varied terrain—crack climbing, face holds, and off-width moves combined with the need for savvy gear placement and route-finding. Unlike more polished sport climbs locally, this line requires solid trad proficiency and careful judgment, especially as the last pitch moves into sustained off-width terrain that can feel more challenging than the grade suggests.

Gear Requirements

Requires a complete set of TCUs, a #4 or #4.5 Camalot, several #3 Camalots, and multiple slings for extending placements and managing rope drag around corners and loose sections. Helmets strongly recommended for protection from potential rockfall.

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Tags

off-width
multi-pitch
granite
helmet recommended
scrambling
rope drag management