Guanopsychotic offers a diverse and engaging traditional climb centered on the raw granite walls above South Platte’s Goose Creek area. It stretches about 230 feet over three pitches, blending chimney moves, hand jams, and finger cracks into a route that invites both mental and physical focus. The approach to this classic feature begins at Molly Gulch Campground, where the forest hums quietly and the air is crisper than the bustling city below. The granite here is solid and clean, themselves seeming to dare you into each committed move.

The first pitch demands a confident chimney technique. A 20-meter rising slot requires you to employ your shins and hips as tools, bridging the gap with purposeful pressure. It’s a satisfying and surprisingly secure movement with the right technique. You'll want a rack focusing on cams from sizes #3 to #6, with the option of adding a couple of Big Bros to help place protection early and smoothly. The grade here sits squarely at 5.9, with the physical chimney dance setting a measured yet approachable tone.

Pitch two shifts gears into flake territory reminiscent of Yosemite’s classic crack systems. The flake on this pitch is imposing: you tunnel beneath it for 15 to 20 meters, feeling the rock close around you before emerging into a good hand crack that leads to a tree belay ledge. Pro protection is solid throughout this part, mostly in the 5.8 range, making the sustained crack jams feel manageable though committed. The environment here quietly encourages crisp, precise placements and steady balance.

The third pitch demands attention to detail, as the route’s signature finger crack lies slightly east of other thinner cracks that might tempt but don’t lead to the top. Starting as a layback-style crack, this nearly 30-meter pitch finishes the climb with more delicate small gear placements and moderate moves rated around 5.6. The crack threads past one medium tree before reaching a belay at a larger tree on the summit. The absence of any guano or significant debris makes this a clean climb where your gear shines and each move counts.

For climbers looking to master the route, the gear beta is straightforward but critical. A rack covering cams from small to large (#3 to #6) suffices, with extra small pieces beneficial for the upper pitch where delicate placements are frequent. Big Bros are a subtle but effective aid to reduce tricky placements early on. The rock quality is consistently solid, maintaining confidence pitch after pitch.

Access is from Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Campground, where a short hike through pine-shaded paths deposits you at the base. The trail is well-defined but rugged in places—expect uneven ground and loose stones. Climbers typically take about 30 minutes to reach the start. With latitude 39.18868 and longitude -105.33495, GPS tags place this gem firmly within Colorado’s famed South Platte canyon. The area offers a cool mountain atmosphere with enough shade on the route to stave off afternoon heat in summer, making morning or late afternoon ideal for ascent.

Safety-wise, the climb’s chimney and flake sections reward good technique and caution. The chimney requires confident bridging skills to avoid slips, while the tunnel beneath the flake can feel confined, so taking your time to place steady protection is advised. On the finger crack pitch, be wary of thinner cracks nearby that don’t lead upward—staying on route is essential to smooth climbing and safe progression. Descent involves a walk-off down from the top tree belay, but climbers should watch out for loose rocks on the way down.

Overall, Guanopsychotic invites climbers who appreciate a mix of crack styles and technical movement on clean granite without the crowds of more famous routes. The unique pitches offer changing challenges that build both confidence and crack-climbing skill, making this a standout choice in the South Platte region. Whether you’re tuning your chimney work or savoring that perfect hand jam, this climb rewards preparation and focus with a raw slice of Colorado granite adventure.