"Grey Ghost demands focus and boldness on Daff Dome’s West Face, delivering run-out slab climbing over three pitches with sharply featured granite knobs and exposed traverses. A perfect route for climbers ready to test their nerve and movement on one of Tuolumne’s classic granite faces."
Grey Ghost on Daff Dome's West Face is a climb that puts even seasoned trad climbers on edge with its run-out sections and bold moves. This route stretches over 400 feet across three pitches, offering an engaging mix of slabby climbing on large knobs and exposed traverses where careful footwork and nerve take center stage. The ascent begins from a spacious ledge shaded by tall pines, where easy slabs lead into a climbing rhythm interrupted by thin seam cracks and steep juggy moves. From here, the route displays its character: patches of smooth granite polish challenge your balance, while well-spaced bolts punctuate sections demanding commitment. The crux pitch pushes you into 5.9 terrain with a bit of liebacking and finger crack sequences that make for rewarding protection placements, nestled beside bolts that provide some reassurance amidst the run-out.
The second pitch eases slightly to 5.8 but remains technically engaging, requiring precise movement over slippery knobs and delicate mantles. Hand traverses and spidering balance on horizontal cracks lead to multiple belay spots, giving the climber options depending on rope length and conditions. The final "pitch" breaks into a fun 4th-class scramble to the summit — a relaxed finish rewarded with sweeping views of Tuolumne Meadows and surrounding granite domes.
Protection is best served with a light single rack of cams up to 3 inches, supplemented by a full set of small stoppers and Metolius TCU’s down to tiny sizes, along with tricams for tricky placements. Long slings come in handy to extend gear around flaring flakes and protect the traverses. Three fresh ASCA bolts brought additional security to key spots, but much of the route demands confidence in traditional gear placements and route-finding accuracy.
Access to the climb starts near popular Tuolumne Meadows within Yosemite National Park. Approach trails move through forested paths with moderate elevation gains on granite slabs and scree, allowing ample time for a mental warmup before standing beneath the imposing West Face of Daff Dome. Given the route’s exposure and polished terrain, early morning starts are recommended to avoid afternoon heat and ensure optimal friction.
Grey Ghost stands out as a prime example of committing slab climbing where the nature of the rock tests mental toughness as much as technique. It’s a route that rewards careful planning, solid gear judgment, and an appetite for adventure balanced by practical caution. Whether you’re aiming to push your trad limits or searching for a climb with both character and cachet in Tuolumne, Grey Ghost offers an experience that lingers long after the last pitch is belayed.
The polished granite patches on the upper pitches are notoriously slick and demand deliberate, controlled movements. Expect run-outs especially on the first pitch, so ensure your gear placements are well extended to avoid long falls. Be cautious of rope drag on traverses and double check anchors before committing to moves above them.
Start early to enjoy cooler granite and avoid afternoon sun on West Face.
Bring long slings to extend gear around knobs and reduce fall potential.
Practice precise footwork on polished granite to maintain balance on run-out sections.
Scout belay anchors beforehand; some pitches have multiple options depending on rope length.
Light rack of cams to 3 inches, small stoppers, Metolius TCU’s (smallest to orange/red), tricams, and long slings. The route features three new ASCA bolts in difficult sections, but most of the protection relies on traditional placements with careful extension to avoid rope drag.
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