"Green Slab Direct is a four-pitch trad route in Eldorado Canyon combining solid crack systems with technical face climbing. With its manageable protection and varied climbing styles, it offers a rewarding challenge for climbers eager to experience classic Colorado granite."
Green Slab Direct offers a distinctly grounded trad climbing experience on Redgarden Wall within Eldorado Canyon State Park. This four-pitch route unfolds amid rough granite faces and intermittent cracks that demand both patience and focus. Starting near the left edge of the alcove that contains Darkness 'Til Dawn, climbers enter a well-defined crack system that guides them upward toward a prominent roof about eighty feet above. This initial pitch challenges with a powerful move around the roof's left corner, tested at 5.8. Beyond the roof, the terrain softens but requires careful navigation around a fractured rock band where a small tree stands as a reliable belay anchor. The second pitch follows easier crack lines, leading straightforwardly to a broad ledge halfway up the wall, a perfect spot to assess conditions and rest.
Pitch three raises the stakes considerably. A steep crack system here pushes climbers through incremental difficulty, escalating from 5.7 to 5.9 with options that vary in risk and technical demand. This pitch requires a confident mix of finger jams and face moves, with a critical choice at the top of the crack: veer left into a short but demanding 5.9+ section, proceed straight up avoiding risky runouts, or skirt right toward a large ramp—a route that demands precise reading of the rock. The fixed piton found just off-route serves as a reminder to climb with care. Reaching the belay atop the ramp offers a welcome reprieve and secures position before the final pitch.
The last pitch follows a right-facing dihedral, a reliable line that winds past a dead tree and eventually ends in a distinctive “V” dihedral. While some variations exist, the commonly accepted finish veers right past a nearby tree on moderate 5.6 terrain. Descending is straightforward yet requires attention: climbers follow a trail that skirts the east side of the ridge for approximately 150 yards, guided by a series of cairns leading to a notch. A short class 3 scramble down reconnects with the main Redgarden trail where packs can be reclaimed and stories of the climb traded over a well-earned beer.
Gear requirements remain uncomplicated. A standard rack suffices, with no necessity for cams larger than a #3 Camalot. The granite demands solid, confident placements but is forgiving to mid-sized protective gear. For approach and safety, be prepared for loose sections near the rotten band, and maintain vigilance on pitch three where protection opportunities become scarcer and runouts increase. Ideal climbing conditions lean toward spring through fall, with morning starts preferred to avoid afternoon heat and the sun beating down on the exposed face. Given the route’s moderate length and accessible protection, Green Slab Direct appeals to climbers comfortable around 5.9 who are looking to test endurance across sustained pitches with a blend of crack climbing and face work. This line’s mixture of technical moves, natural features, and manageable approach ensures a memorable day in one of Colorado’s premier climbing destinations.
Loose rock on the rotten band and extended runouts on pitch three warrant careful gear placement and route-finding. Climbers should remain cautious on the class 3 scramble during descent, especially in wet or icy conditions.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the exposed granite face.
Watch for loose rock around the rotten band on pitch one.
Scout protection options carefully on pitch three to avoid runouts.
Descend by following cairns east of the ridge; the class 3 scramble requires caution.
Standard trad rack recommended; no need for cams larger than #3 Camalot. The route protects well with medium and small cams and stoppers but expect tricky placements on the third pitch near the steeper crack sections.
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