HomeClimbingGreat Pumpkin

Great Pumpkin: A Classic Tuolumne Trad Adventure on Fairview Dome

Lee Vining, California United States
trad
runout sections
multi-pitch
slab
lieback
bolt-protected
fairview dome
Length: 700 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Great Pumpkin
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Great Pumpkin is a classic Trad route on Fairview Dome’s West Face, weaving solid granite climbing with thoughtful moves and intermittent run-outs. It balances accessible pitches with enough challenge to push both your skills and your mental game under expansive Tuolumne skies."

Great Pumpkin: A Classic Tuolumne Trad Adventure on Fairview Dome

Carved into the iconic West Face of Fairview Dome, Great Pumpkin offers a classic Yosemite trad experience that stretches over 700 feet and climbs through five engaging pitches. This route delivers solid, straightforward climbing with moments of mental challenge, a combination that appeals to climbers seeking a blend of adventure and thoughtful movement on granite. Starting just right of the Roseanne route, Great Pumpkin invites you onto mainly easy face climbing that quickly introduces a few run-outs and subtle routefinding challenges. The first pitch meanders up an inviting slab at 5.4 difficulty, setting a comfortable tone and giving climbers a chance to find their rhythm on the dome’s broad granite expanse.

From this initial ledge, the climbing steps up in interest. You’ll tackle a short left-facing corner, a bolt-protected bulge, then move right to a belay station at the 5.8 crux. This pitch demands careful footwork and steady balance, especially as protection gets a little sparse. The next section calls for a 5.8 lieback, a move that tests finger strength and body tension, rewarding those who hold their composure with an exposed belay.

Continuing, a left-facing corner guides you to another spacious ledge, rated around 5.7, providing a natural rest and a chance to soak in the sweeping views of Tuolumne Meadows below. The route’s character unfolds further as you climb right along the ledge’s end, diving into a series of 5.8 pitches. These feature a handful of bolts—just enough to ease the mental load but still requiring solid trad skills to place gear wisely. Passing two bolts then three bolts on successive pitches, you’ll progress steadily until the final 5.8 segment completes the climb and brings you to the walk-off.

Great Pumpkin is graced with classic Tuolumne granite—solid, featured, and receptive to protection placements. The rock demands attentiveness but rewards with confidence when approached with a full rack. Routefinding is a key element throughout; the path isn’t always blatantly obvious, so maintaining focus on the sequence and natural features is critical.

Approaching this climb mid to late season is optimal, when the weather is stable, and the granite is dry and welcoming. Mornings provide ideal temperatures before the sun fully warms the west face, which bakes in the heat by afternoon. Adequate hydration, steady pacing, and a prepared mindset make this route an excellent launchpad for climbers venturing beyond gym-scale challenges into the wilderness realm of Yosemite’s higher country.

Beyond the climbing, the area thrives with expansive alpine panoramas, ambient pine scent, and the occasional chatter of distant climbers echoing between domes. Great Pumpkin not only tests technical skills but also rewards with perspective—a reminder that adventure springs from both physical effort and mental discovery in the rock’s embrace.

In short, Great Pumpkin is an accessible yet fulfilling trad climb in one of Yosemite’s quieter corners. Its blend of approachable difficulty, interesting movement, and a touch of adventure make it a must-do for trad climbers exploring the Tuolumne meadows area seeking a genuine connection with the granite and the wild surrounding it.

Climber Safety

Some pitches feature sparse protection and run-outs, demanding experienced gear placement and mental composure. The granite is solid, but ledges are limited in size, so managing your gear and maintaining steady moves is essential. Be aware of late-season rockfall risk and prepare accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length700 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the West Face.

Familiarize yourself with the route’s variations to ease routefinding challenges.

Wear sticky rubber shoes suitable for slab climbing and lieback moves.

Pack plenty of water, as the approach and climb expose you to dry alpine conditions.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 R rating reflects moderate technical difficulty with added mental challenge due to run-out sections and the need for precise routefinding. Compared to other Tuolumne climbs, the grade feels fair but the protection rating advises caution to maintain focus and confidence.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with a range of cams and nuts to protect the route’s varied cracks and face features. While bolts provide some security, expect sections requiring careful gear placements, especially near the 5.8 crux pitches.

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Tags

trad
runout sections
multi-pitch
slab
lieback
bolt-protected
fairview dome