Granola at Wrangler Rock: A Precise Edge on Bishop’s Buttermilk Crags

Bishop, California United States
finger crack
single pitch
trad
granite
Buttermilk Crags
Wrangler Rock
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Granola
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Granola carves a clean, confident line on Wrangler Rock's right face, blending precise footwork with delicate finger cracks. This single pitch trad climb is an ideal test of beginner-to-intermediate crack skills set against Bishop’s iconic granite domes."

Granola at Wrangler Rock: A Precise Edge on Bishop’s Buttermilk Crags

Granola stakes its claim all the way to the right side of the Wrangler Rock face, offering a sharp, focused trad climb that rewards precision and calm on the high Sierra’s rugged edge. This single pitch climb scales 50 feet up the rock, steadily ascending to Wrangler’s highest point where the granite turns from exposed slab to finger crack. Starting on solid face holds with subtle friction, the route challenges your footwork and balance before guiding you right toward a thin crack that will test your finger strength and placement skills. The rock is firm but with enough micro-features to keep the movement engaging without being overly technical.

Protected by a single bolt beside gear placements reaching up to 2 inches, Granola offers security balanced by the need for smart pro placement. The crack itself invites smaller cams and fingers to nestle in both comfort and challenge, keeping you attuned to the subtleties of Sierra granite. Descending is straightforward by lowering off, making it an accessible objective for those looking to sharpen their trad abilities without committing to multiple pitches.

Wrangler Rock’s position within the Buttermilk Crags brings you into a landscape marked by sun-drenched domes and sweeping views of the dry eastern Sierra. The approach weaves through open pine groves where the scent of resin and pine needles fills the air, and the heat of the granite radiates beneathfoot. Early morning or late afternoon climbs are ideal here to avoid the high desert sun that intensifies midday. Water sources are sparse, so ensure robust hydration before you set out.

This route balances the thrill of a well-protected crack climb with the simplicity of a short, punchy single pitch. Granola is perfect for those eager to hone finger crack skills or add a clean, classic trad ascent to their Bishop repertoire. Though the star rating is modest, the climb packs a focused punch that offers a pure and straightforward test of foundational trad techniques in a setting that rewards presence and preparation.

Climber Safety

While the bolt provides a solid main anchor, watch for loose or flakey rock near the base and on the approach. The finger crack requires careful gear sizing—oversized cams won’t hold reliably, so carry a full rack of smaller sizes. Also, avoid climbing during or after rainfall, as Sierra granite can become slick and hazardous.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the harsh midday sun on the granite face.

Hydrate thoroughly before the climb—there is limited water nearby.

Approach via the main Buttermilk trail; the walk-in is less than 15 minutes on well-trodden paths.

Check your cams and nuts carefully, as placements in the finger crack can be tricky without proper sizing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Granola offers a challenge that is approachable yet demands solid crack technique. Some climbers may find the rating slightly stiff due to sustained finger crack moves near the top, where precise placements and body positioning create a subtle crux. Compared to other nearby trad lines in Buttermilk Crags, this route delivers a clean, uninterrupted sequence without overly complex maneuvers.

Gear Requirements

One bolt anchors protect key sections, but ample gear placements up to 2 inches are essential, especially in the finger crack. Bring a set of cams with strong small to medium sizes for secure placements.

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Tags

finger crack
single pitch
trad
granite
Buttermilk Crags
Wrangler Rock