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Goat's Head Soup

Canmore, Canada
sport climbing
two-pitch
5.9 crux
stable protection
alpine exposure
Bow Valley
Length: 70 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Goat's Head Soup
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Goat's Head Soup is a two-pitch sport climb on Old Goat Crag offering steady climbing with a defining 5.9 crux just before the anchor. Its alpine setting and solid protection make it a rewarding choice for climbers looking to merge approachable moves with mountain exposure."

Goat's Head Soup

Set against the rugged backdrop of Alberta’s Bow Valley, Goat's Head Soup offers a climbing experience that blends approachable sport moves with a satisfying dose of alpine character. This two-pitch route, topping out at 70 feet, unfolds on Old Goat Crag’s textured walls, where the rock catches the sunlight and the cool mountain air flows steadily through low pines and rocky outcrops. The approach introduces you to the raw spirit of the crag—rough trails lightly worn by an active local climbing community, passing through stands of spruce and fir that seem to watch your progress quietly.

The first pitch builds steadily, offering easy climbing that feels more like a warm-up until it reaches the headwall. Here, the rock tightens and steeper holds challenge balance and technique—heightening focus for the climber aware that the finish moves demand attention. The final sequence before the anchor is the definitive crux, a short but sharp test at 5.9 that requires precision and commitment. The bolts paced comfortably along the line provide a reassuring rhythm, helping you trust your gear while you work the moves.

Pitch two, known as Dancing with Mr. D, softens the technical intensity with moves mostly at 5.7. It shifts the mood toward playfulness, rewarding steady footwork and sealed with a solid set of ring anchors marking your successful ascent. Throughout the climb, the rock’s slightly rough texture serves both your hands and feet well, offering just enough friction to feel secure without punishing skin or technique.

Beyond the route itself, Old Goat Crag offers panoramic views that reach across the valley: pine-dotted ridgelines, distant peaks, and the ever-changing sky that hints at Alberta’s swift mountain weather. This combination of moderate technical climbing, solid protection, and vibrant natural setting makes Goat's Head Soup ideal for climbers seeking a classic northwestern sport line with an alpine edge.

Planning your day here calls for sturdy approach shoes as the trail can be uneven, plenty of water to stay ahead of hydration, and timing your climb for mid-morning or afternoon to avoid lingering morning dew on the rock. A light jacket will help ward off the occasional mountain chill, especially if weather shifts or wind picks up. Respect for the environment is key here, as Old Goat Crag remains a cherished site that balances recreational use with quiet wilderness preservation.

Whether you’re sending your first 5.9 or refining sport techniques under open skies, Goat’s Head Soup delivers a climb that is both inviting and invigorating, set among the compelling landscapes of Alberta’s climbing heartland.

Climber Safety

While the protection is fixed and reliable, climbers should remain cautious of sudden weather changes common in the Bow Valley. The approach path includes uneven terrain with some loose rocks, so maintaining sure footing is key. Also, avoid climbing immediately after heavy rain to prevent slick holds.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches2
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start mid-morning to catch dry rock and avoid the morning moisture.

Wear approach shoes with good grip; trail to the base is uneven and rocky.

Hydrate adequately—mountain air can be deceptively drying.

Expect cooler temperatures near the top; a light windbreaker is recommended.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels true to the style, with a sharp but manageable crux move just before the anchor that demands precise footwork and steady hands. The second pitch eases to 5.7, providing a comfortable descent that balances the intensity of the lead. Climbers familiar with nearby Bow Valley sport routes will find this route’s difficulty approachable with a slightly alpine advantage.

Gear Requirements

Established with nine bolts and secure ring anchors, this route requires a standard sport rack. The well-spaced bolts ease clip transitions, supporting both confidence and fluid movement through the crux on pitch one.

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Tags

sport climbing
two-pitch
5.9 crux
stable protection
alpine exposure
Bow Valley