Ha Ling: Climbing Alberta’s Landmark of Exposure and History

Canmore, Alberta
exposed
limestone
multi-pitch
historic
summer
alpine
long approach
panoramic views
loose rock
Length: 1,800 ft
Type: Trad | Sport | Alpine
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
Kananaskis Provincial Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ha Ling stands above Canmore as an iconic Alberta peak, offering climbers a mix of long limestone routes and legendary mountain history. Its exposed faces and demanding approach make it a prize for those seeking both adventure and a window into mountain lore."

Ha Ling: Climbing Alberta’s Landmark of Exposure and History

Ha Ling rises above Canmore’s skyline, unmistakable at 7,900 feet, its ragged limestone faces carving out a bold slice between the Three Sisters and Mount Rundle. Luring climbers and peak-baggers alike, this iconic summit is both a playground for adventure and a canvas of Canadian mountaineering legacy. With the Bow Valley stretched out below and Kananaskis’ rolling peaks at your back, every moment spent on Ha Ling feels deeply connected to the land’s wild heart and storied past.

Approaching the mountain, the trail quickly reminds you this is no stroll in the park — scree fields demand traction and patience as you ascend 2,400 feet toward the imposing north and northeast faces, the heart of Ha Ling’s climbing allure. The limestone is unmistakable: coarse, sharp in the hand, and loose in sections, rewarding the careful movement and unwavering attention of experienced alpinists. Exposure is a constant companion, providing stunning views and that vivid sense of commitment only a true mountain can deliver.

This peak’s history is as compelling as its cliffs. In the 1880s, as the legend goes, a railroad worker named Ha Ling (or perhaps Lee Poon, depending on who you believe) claimed a bet to climb and return from the summit in under six hours, setting the stage for over a century of bold ascents and local myth. Officially renamed in 1997 after community activism, Ha Ling stands today as a symbol of both perseverance and cultural change, its summit a prize for those willing to earn it.

For climbers, Ha Ling offers a blend of traditional and sport routes, with the sheer 550-meter face providing ample room for long, memorable lines. The legendary Sisyphus Summits (5.10d) stretches skyward in a mind-boggling 21 pitches, previously holding a reputation as the longest sport climb on the continent. Tackling this route is not just a physical challenge — it’s a full-day commitment in exposure with every pitch bringing you closer to the sky. The NE Buttress (also known as the NE Face), meanwhile, offers moderate climbing (5.6), drawing many for its approachable grades yet impressive setting. Don’t be fooled by lower difficulties: the hazards here are real, and a careful eye is necessary at every step. With several reports of injuries and accidents, especially on exposed sections, climbers must weigh ambition with respect for the mountain’s objective dangers.

The practical side of a Ha Ling adventure is just as important as the thrill. From Canmore, climbers typically access the base via Spray Lakes Reservoir Road, often parking at Goat Creek and trekking up a loose scree slope for 30 to 60 minutes. The descent — a 2.2-kilometer (1.4-mile) route down Ha Ling’s backside — is equally demanding, involving more scree and the famous 'scree skiing' that can either speed you home or leave you battered if you lose focus. Expect this return leg to take one to two hours.

The mountain’s climate is changeable, with summer typically providing the prime window for climbing. Warm conditions make for safer rock and better footing on loose ground, but sudden weather shifts are common, so always check the forecast and start early if possible. The prime season runs June through September when the faces are mostly dry, and the long daylight hours let you savor every pitch. The exposure on the face means sun is a frequent companion, especially in the morning and midday, though afternoon storms can roll in quickly — pack layers and be prepared.

Gear up appropriately: both traditional and sport racks have their place on this mountain, and helmets are a must given the loose rock. Pay special attention to fixed gear conditions if undertaking the longer classics, and double-check your rappel systems for the descent.

Standing on Ha Ling’s summit, the panorama rewards every ounce of sweat and resolve. This is what Bow Valley climbing is all about: wide horizons, humbling exposure, and a real sense of adventure — not just in climbing the stone, but in stepping into the living history that trails behind every ascent.

Climber Safety

Loose rock and significant exposure are ever-present — helmets are a must. Several injuries and fatalities have occurred here, particularly on the NE Ridge. Ensure every movement is deliberate, and monitor weather closely; storms can roll in quickly, raising hazard levels.

Area Details

TypeTrad | Sport | Alpine
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length1,800 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday sun and reduce exposure to fast-changing weather.

Wear sturdy approach shoes — the scree up and down is loose and demanding.

Don’t underestimate the descent; scree skiing is fun but can be treacherous.

Check current fixed anchor conditions before committing to longer routes.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Grades at Ha Ling tend to align with standard Bow Valley expectations — fair and straightforward, but the real challenge comes from exposure and the need for careful movement on loose rock. While the classic NE Buttress is approachable, the sheer volume and setting make every ascent feel bigger than its grade. Sisyphus Summits, with its length and consistent climbing, is a test of both endurance and headspace. Expect honest ratings, but don’t underestimate the mountain’s inherent challenges.

Gear Requirements

Bring both traditional and sport racks, with emphasis on helmets for loose rock. Expect longer multi-pitch climbs with possible fixed gear — check recent conditions and bring webbing for potential anchor replacements.

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Tags

exposed
limestone
multi-pitch
historic
summer
alpine
long approach
panoramic views
loose rock