"Glen's Pancake carves a clean, narrow crack on Turkey Rock’s rugged face, offering a punchy crux and engaging moves across a solid 80-foot line. Perfect for trad climbers seeking a quick but rewarding challenge in Colorado’s South Platte region."
Glen's Pancake offers a straightforward yet engaging trad climb that commands attention from the moment you step onto Turkey Rock’s rugged face. This 80-foot route follows a narrow crack beginning on the right edge of the small alcove known as Turkey’s Dare start. As you ascend the crack, the rock's texture invites tactile exploration, your hands and feet finding natural holds in a rhythm that tests finesse over brute strength. Early on, the crux challenges your footwork and body positioning, nudging you to commit before the climb eases into a steady, enjoyable flow.
The climb rewards you with two prominent ledges—a welcome chance to catch your breath and appreciate the stark, open views offered by the South Platte area in Colorado. After reaching the second ledge, you can continue straight up or veer right onto the Nightime Madness variation. Taking this detour adds a fresh challenge and spices up the finish, offering more technical moves that engage both mind and muscle. The rock quality remains consistent throughout, with solid cracks perfect for traditional protection placements.
Turkey Rock itself sits within a favorite local climbing hub, where the granite's rough edges and exposed features create an inviting playground for climbers who want a brief but fulfilling outing. At just one pitch and rated 5.8, Glen's Pancake strikes a nice balance between accessible excitement and a dose of technical skill. A standard rack is sufficient here, making it a perfect climb to approach lightly but smartly.
Approaching the route involves a short walk through uneven terrain, with enough vegetation and loose scree to keep your approach steady but not overwhelming. Timing your climb for earlier in the day is ideal to avoid the afternoon sun that can bake the exposed rock surfaces. Hydration and sturdy footwear are musts for this area, as the path is uneven and the air can get surprisingly dry. Local climbers appreciate this climb for its mix of flowing moves and the way it rewards calm focus under pressure, ideal for those building confidence on moderate trad lines.
In this corner of Colorado’s climbing scene, Glen’s Pancake stands out as a compact route that promises a memorable climb without requiring a full day of commitment. With a blend of classic crack climbing and a touch of variety on the finish, it offers a well-rounded experience that nods to tradition while inviting climbers to sharpen their skills in a beautiful, honest setting.
Watch for loose rock near the approach and stay attentive on the narrower crack sections where protection placement requires focus. The ledges offer safe rests, but always maintain three points of contact transitioning between them.
Approach early to enjoy cooler rock and avoid midday sun exposure.
Wear shoes with precise edging to manage the narrow crack sections.
Bring extra water as the South Platte area can be dry and exposed.
Consider finishing on Nightime Madness variation for additional technical moves.
A standard trad rack covers all protection needs here, with consistent crack placements requiring gear ranging from small cams to medium-sized nuts. The rock quality supports secure placements without the need for fixed gear.
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