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Furry Pink Arete at Snowpatch Spire: A Bold Alpine Climb in the Bugaboos

Golden, Canada
traditional protection
multi-pitch
lichen patches
classic crux
exposed arete
alpine environment
Bugaboos
Length: ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
8
Location
Furry Pink Arete
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Furry Pink Arete challenges climbers with its initial scruffy approach that soon transitions into solid alpine granite, culminating in a classic 5.10c crux pitch. Nestled in the heart of the Bugaboos, this eight-pitch trad climb combines demanding moves with stunning high-mountain surroundings."

Furry Pink Arete at Snowpatch Spire: A Bold Alpine Climb in the Bugaboos

Rising sharply within the rugged Purcell Mountains of British Columbia, the Furry Pink Arete offers a compelling alpine trad climb that tests both skill and spirit. Beginning with a somewhat rough, lichen-streaked approach on its lower pitches, the route demands patience and steady footwork as you navigate the scruffy rock that signals you’re entering a wild, less-traveled zone. Yet this initial roughness soon fades, replaced by cleaner and more solid granite as you ascend higher.

By the time you reach the renowned crux on pitch 7, the route’s character reveals itself in full force. This section stretches your fingers and heels over sharp edges and delicate holds, inviting a focused dance across the arete’s exposed prow. The rock’s texture is rugged, yet reliable, offering trusted placements amid the alpine air. With eight pitches to the summit, climbers experience an evolving landscape—from dense patches of alpine flora at the base to sweeping views across the iconic Bugaboos, where distant peaks slice the horizon beneath vast, ever-changing skies.

The climb demands a standard alpine rack: cams, nuts, and slings to accommodate crack systems and occasional sparse flakes. Protection placements vary, with some sections offering solid stances while others require thoughtful gear decisions in more subtle features. Given the route’s length and pitch count, pacing yourself and managing rope systems efficiently become key.

Approaching Snowpatch Spire involves navigating alpine terrain that shifts between solid forested trails and more rugged moraine fields. The route’s location deep in the Purcell range means honest commitment—you’re trading easy access for remarkable solitude and sweeping, untouched wilderness vistas. Optimal climbing windows stretch from mid-summer into early autumn, when stable weather enhances grip and visibility, and the shadows cast by the spire begin to cool your skin during afternoon ascents.

Safety hinges on preparation: the initial scruffiness can hide slippery lichen and unstable patches, so solid footwear with sticky soles is essential. Weather can be unpredictable high in the Bugaboos, so pack layered clothing and be ready to wait out sudden shifts. Descending involves careful rappels and route-finding that rewards those with a good sense of direction and rope management skills.

Furry Pink Arete is a route that asks for both grit and grace—a climb to enliven your alpine ambitions while grounding you in the practical realities of mountain adventure. It’s a chance to engage deeply with the raw granite edges and the expansive pulse of the Purcells, a climb that will push your technique and reward your resolve with a rare taste of classic Canadian alpine climbing at its most honest and exhilarating.

Climber Safety

The lower pitches’ lichen and moss require cautious foot placement to avoid slips. Weather can shift abruptly, so climbers should plan for swift shelter access and be prepared to retreat if conditions deteriorate. The descent involves multi-point rappels with some loose rock sections—vigilance here is crucial.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches8
Length feet

Local Tips

Wear sticky-soled footwear to handle the lichen-covered lower sections safely.

Start early to avoid afternoon storms common in the Purcells during summer.

Pack layers to adjust for rapidly changing alpine weather.

Study descent rappels carefully before climbing; route-finding can be complex.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating on Furry Pink Arete feels true to its grade, demanding technical precision especially on the crux pitch 7, where movement becomes more sustained and intricate. Compared to other Bugaboos climbs, it stands out as slightly more committing due to its alpine exposure and the endurance required over eight pitches. The grade is neither inflated nor soft, making it a reliable benchmark for climbers familiar with this range.

Gear Requirements

A standard alpine rack is advised, including a full range of cams and nuts. The protection varies from solid crack placements to some tricky spots calling for precise gear choices. Expect to rely on traditional gear throughout the climb.

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Tags

traditional protection
multi-pitch
lichen patches
classic crux
exposed arete
alpine environment
Bugaboos