HomeClimbingFull Body Brace

Full Body Brace: A Classic Trad Climb on Piedra River

Pagosa Springs, Colorado United States
hand jams
stemming
single pitch
crack climbing
river views
moderate trad
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Full Body Brace
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Full Body Brace is a compact, engaging trad climb along Colorado’s Piedra River offering solid hand jams, stemming moves, and a manageable crux. Perfect for climbers looking to refine trad techniques with reliable protection and scenic river views."

Full Body Brace: A Classic Trad Climb on Piedra River

Nestled along the rugged banks of the lower Piedra River, Full Body Brace offers a straightforward yet engaging climb for trad enthusiasts ready to test their skills on Colorado's inviting stone. The route stretches about 70 feet up a pocketed face that demands steady attention to hand jams, stemming moves, and carefully placed protection. Your hands will find comfort in the well-featured cracks, transitioning as the line widens towards the top, while the face provides secure edges to push upwards. The climb starts with precise moves on a pocketed face leading into the crack, quickly bringing you to the crux—a short, steep section that’s well protected yet requires commitment. After conquering this challenge, the route eases, letting you cruise up the crack and face with confidence. Near the top, the crack broadens, inviting you to finish on the face to the right, where the rock feels solid and rewarding. As you reach the belay stance, the view over the edge of the prow catches your eye—wide-open skies and the gentle flow of Piedra River framing your ascent.

Approach is direct, with access along lower West Piedra River. Expect light terrain and a brief hike from nearby Pagosa Springs that places you in this striking climbing corridor without fuss. The rock is predominantly quality sandstone with good texture and solid edges, making gear placements reliable when using cams sized mostly for hand and big hand placements. The climb's protective nature and moderate difficulty make it a perfect warm-up for trad climbers comfortable at 5.8, offering a taste of the area's natural charm without the need for excessive gear or long approaches.

Gear up with a set of cams focused on hand- to big-hand-sized devices—no need for anything above a BD #4 unless you favor extra security near the bottom. A small piece near the start can add peace of mind, but the route’s natural features do much of the work. Remember to double-check your placements at the crux to tackle the steep section cleanly. The climb rewards steady footwork and confidence in stemming and crack techniques, making it a solid pick for anyone wanting a reliable single-pitch trad with character.

Plan your climb for morning or early afternoon when the sun hits the face directly, warming the holds and drying any morning moisture. The route’s southwest-facing orientation catches light well through most of the climbing season, but spring and fall remain prime for stable weather and comfortable temperatures. Descending involves a straightforward walk-off or downclimb along the approach trail shoulders, so no need for rope rappels once you top out.

For those seeking a climb that blends approachable technical moves with reliable protection and rewarding views, Full Body Brace is an ideal choice. It’s a climb that delivers an honest test without overwhelming complexity, perfect for sharpening skills and soaking in the raw character of Colorado’s Piedra River corridor.

Climber Safety

Pay close attention to your gear placements at the crux section—while protection is reliable, the steepness demands solid placements to avoid pendulum falls. Rock condition is generally sound but verify holds on the face near the top where the crack opens.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Bring cams ranging from small to big hand sizes for optimal protection.

Start early to enjoy dry, warm rock on this southwest-facing route.

Practice stemming and hand jam techniques on the crack before tackling the crux.

Plan for a simple walk-off descent—no rappels needed.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels true to its difficulty—a moderate step up that presents a brief steep crux requiring committed movement. Comparing to similar local routes, it sits in the approachable zone, with solid protection easing concerns that sometimes raise the grade artificially. Climbers comfortable on 5.8 trad moves should find this a rewarding challenge without surprises.

Gear Requirements

Cams focused on hand and big-hand sizes work best here, with no placements larger than BD #4 generally needed. One small piece near the start can offer extra security on an otherwise well-protected route.

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Tags

hand jams
stemming
single pitch
crack climbing
river views
moderate trad