"Free to Choose traces a sharp, two-pitch arete on The Fortress’s exposed face, combining clean protection with sustained climbing. This route offers an accessible yet thrilling adventure for those ready to test their balance and composure on a narrow, sun-drenched ridge."
Perched on the rugged edge of Right Side Gully, Free to Choose is a two-pitch sport route that slices a bold line up The Fortress’s sharpest arete. This climb demands attention—not just for its striking profile but for the experience it offers: a blend of exposure, sustained climbing, and clean movement on well-protected rock. From the moment you step onto the first pitch, the knife-edge arête—a narrow, roughly three-feet-wide ridge—feels alive, daring you forward with its crisp edges and steep angles. The air hums with the faint rustle of native chaparral below, while the rocks bear the heat of California’s Central Coast sun.
Pitch one extends about 95 feet and moves at a comfortable 5.6 to 5.7 difficulty grade, guided by nine solid bolts. As you thread your way up, the climb opens a physically engaging rhythm: balance-focused footwork on the slim spine paired with technical handholds that invite precise placement. Across a small gully, the belay stance is set at a secure platform equipped with bolts—offering a moment to breathe, exchange perspectives, and soak in distant views of the surrounding hillside.
The second pitch intensifies, running 85 feet along a steepening arête that tilts upward toward a pronounced dihedral. Here the rock demands more commitment, climbing at 5.8, with eight bolts marking the route. The terrain sharpens, requiring a blend of finger strength and steady footwork as the path channels you toward a ledge where the final bolts rest, ready for your top-rope or anchor setup. Descending involves two rappels, easily managed with a 60-meter rope, dropping you safely back to the ground.
Free to Choose stands out not only for its technical layout but for the integrity of its protection. The route is bolted with 1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolts, punctuated by two powerful 13mm Fixe Triplex bolts, ensuring reliable anchors throughout your climb. The Fortress area itself occupies a striking position off Highway 33, framing an exposed climbing experience with sweeping coastal vistas and the rugged Central California backdrop.
For climbers preparing to engage with this route, hydration is essential—shade is scarce, and the rock quickly warms under the afternoon sun. Durable shoes with solid edging capabilities will make the knife-edge arête more approachable, while a stable headlamp and first aid kit remain staples in case your descent drags into dusk or an unexpected scrape occurs. Timing your ascent early in the day can offer the best combination of cool rock and fewer crowds.
While Free to Choose offers an inviting introduction to arête climbing, it also requires respect for exposure and route-finding on a narrow ridge where small slips have outsized consequences. Climbing with a partner familiar with sport climbing — especially on ledge belays and rappels — will add to your safety and enjoyment.
In summary, this route delivers a practical but exhilarating climb with clear gear, accessible cruxes, and a stunning setting that rewards focus and boldness alike. It’s a must for climbers eager to test balance and composure on a line that cuts a sharp profile against the coastal hills of California.
While bolts secure the line well, the arete’s narrow profile means a slip can have serious consequences. Stay focused on foot placement, and be alert for any loose debris near the belay ledges. Rappels require care to avoid rope drag and contact with rock edges.
Start early to avoid the midday heat on the exposed arete.
Wear shoes with strong edging performance for the knife-edge ridge.
Bring extra water — the route and approach are under direct sun with limited shade.
Double-check your rappel setup on the two-bolt anchors to ensure safety.
Route is protected by 1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolts, with two 13mm Fixe Triplex bolts adding extra security. A 60-meter rope is required for the two rappels during descent.
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