Right Side Gully at the Fortress: Classic Multi-Pitch Climbing in California’s Central Coast

Ojai, California
multi-pitch
trad climbing
flatirons
exposed routes
central coast
California
Sespe Creek
moderate difficulty
classic climbs
Length: 200-300 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
Fortress Area, Hwy 33/Ojai
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Right Side Gully offers a solid day of multi-pitch climbing on three major flatiron formations within California’s Fortress area. With accessible grades and routes like Permanent Income Hypothesis and Capitalism & Freedom, this is a prime destination for climbers seeking exposure and steady challenges close to Ojai."

Right Side Gully at the Fortress: Classic Multi-Pitch Climbing in California’s Central Coast

Right Side Gully stands as the gateway to the Fortress climbing area along California’s Central Coast, offering a day filled with engaging multi-pitch routes framed by striking flatiron formations. This area earned its place in local climbing history as the first sector to receive major development, and it continues to captivate climbers with routes mostly ranging from 5.7 to 5.10d. The long climbs here are moderate in difficulty, making the gully a superb option for those wanting a full day of continuous climbing without encountering steep, technical extremes.

The gully springs from three dominant flatirons sculpted by time and weather, each providing solid rock and aesthetic summits. Of these, two formations harbor noteworthy routes: P.I.H. (Permanent Income Hypothesis) and Capitalism & Freedom stand out not only for their excellent exposure but also for their accessible grades and clean lines. These climbs reward climbers with views that open outward across the rolling hills and rugged wilderness of the territory, letting you breathe in the vastness during your ascent.

Approaching Right Side Gully is straightforward and adds to the overall experience. From the parking turnout along Hwy 33, a brief walk leads down to Sespe Creek where you’ll cross and follow the stream before climbing a hillside to reach the base of the first pitch of Free to Choose (5.9). This pitch is a key to accessing multiple nearby routes—traversing right from its base leads you to climbs such as Classically Liberal (5.11a) and Consumption Dysfunction (5.10a). While it’s technically possible to scramble directly up the gully itself to reach routes like P.I.H. and Natural Rate of Unemployment, this is not recommended due to the boulder-laden drainage and loose terrain.

Climbers will appreciate the mix of rock quality and climbing styles here, which broadly support steady, sustained effort across moderate difficulties. The grading tends to be fair with a comfortable flow, making it a welcoming destination for intermediate climbers who want to push their limits on well-protected, multi-pitch lines. The included classics—Free to Choose, Permanent Income Hypothesis, Consumption Dysfunction, Capitalism & Freedom, Adaptive Expectations, Natural Rate of Unemployment, and Classically Liberal—offer a balanced sampling of challenges and exposures.

The area’s setting near Sespe Creek gives it a quiet, remote feeling despite its relative accessibility, with heat and sun exposure balanced by shaded draws and elevation changes. Climbers should check local road conditions, particularly Hwy 33, which can be subject to closures that affect access. Planning a trip during the prime climbing seasons—typically spring through early summer and again in fall—will ensure you enjoy comfortable weather and optimal rock conditions.

While Right Side Gully offers fantastic climbing potential, a respectful approach to the terrain is vital. Rockfall hazards exist in the boulder drainage areas, and the descent demands care, as no direct walk-offs are readily available. Routes generally require a standard rack for multi-pitch trad climbing, with the ability to place traditional protection confidently on quality cracks and features.

For those seeking adventure mixed with approachable challenges, Right Side Gully invites a day full of invigorating climbs, panoramic exposures, and a taste of the Fortress’s climbing legacy. Whether you’re linking pitches or savoring the views from the summit, this sector rewards careful preparation and steady effort with some of the Central Coast’s most enjoyable multi-pitch climbing.

Climber Safety

Loose rock in the boulder-filled drainage and approach areas calls for extra caution. Avoid route access by scrambling up the gully itself as the terrain is unstable. Descents require careful planning as walk-offs are not straightforward and rappels may be necessary.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length200-300 feet

Local Tips

Access via Hwy 33 may be limited due to road closures, so check Caltrans in advance.

Cross Sespe Creek downstream from the parking turnout and approach via the hillside to the left of the boulder-filled drainage for safer access.

Avoid scrambling directly up the gully to reach P.I.H. and Natural Rate—use the traverse from Free to Choose’s base instead.

Plan your climb for spring through early summer or fall to avoid extreme heat and enjoy optimal rock conditions.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Right Side Gully features a moderate trad difficulty range from 5.7 to 5.11a that generally feels fair and approachable. The grading is neither stiff nor overly soft, providing a reliable challenge for intermediate climbers progressing into longer routes. It compares well with other Central Coast areas offering sustained but accessible pitches without technical extremes.

Gear Requirements

The routes in Right Side Gully require a standard trad rack suitable for 5.7-5.11a climbing with solid placements on cracks and edges. Use caution in boulder-strewn gullies where loose rock may present hazards. No sport bolts are mentioned, so traditional protection is essential.

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Tags

multi-pitch
trad climbing
flatirons
exposed routes
central coast
California
Sespe Creek
moderate difficulty
classic climbs