"Fortune Cookie offers a sharp 45-foot sport climb in Owens River Gorge, perfect as a quick warm-up or a neat challenge while waiting your turn. The opening moves engage your focus before settling into smoother climbing that rewards steady rhythm and tenacity."
Fortune Cookie is a compact, focused introduction to the Owens River Gorge's sport climbing scene, standing as a perfect warm-up or quick challenge for anyone waiting their turn on busier routes nearby. Located just to the right of Heart of the Sun, this 45-foot line packs thoughtful moves right from the start, requiring a brief moment of concentration before the route eases into more comfortable, flowing climbing. Despite its brevity, this climb leaves an impression with engaging sequences that reward careful footwork and steady pacing.
The route's four well-placed bolts provide solid protection, making it approachable for climbers comfortable on 5.9 terrain. The unique character of the climb lies in its punchy opening moves—think of it as a puzzle that demands focus before settling into rhythm. Once through the crux, the rock opens up into smoother, cruisier movement on solid California granite leading to a sturdy Mussy hook anchor.
Owens River Gorge itself is a draw with its rugged beauty—sheer walls rising from the desert floor where light plays off textured stone, and prevailing winds whisper hints of the nearby Sierra Nevada. The immediate environment is straightforward and serviceable, making Fortune Cookie ideal as a short, easily accessible route during a climbing day. The approach from the parking area is brief and mostly flat, allowing you to save energy for the climb itself.
This route fits well into any climbing plan in the Gorge, especially if you’re aiming to sharpen your technique or warm up before tackling longer, more demanding climbs. Be sure to chalk up well, keep attention to your clipping, and enjoy the subtle mental stretch that the moves here deliver. Ideal for late morning or afternoon climbs when the sun softens and shadows lend depth to the rock’s features, Fortune Cookie offers a sharp but friendly bite of the Owens River climbing experience.
Prepare with comfortable, sticky shoes and a light rack focused on sport climbing gear. Bring hydration for the dry desert air, and remember that the area’s popularity means practicing good trail etiquette and respecting local regulations helps keep this slice of rock pristine. Whether it’s your first visit or one of many, Fortune Cookie presents a crisp slice of climbing that balances challenge and satisfaction with straightforward logistics.
The route’s protection is reliable with four bolts, but the initial moves involve careful positioning to avoid falls. The Mussy hook anchor requires secure clipping and attention during the belay. Watch for sun exposure in midday hours, and prepare for dry air conditions.
Approach is short and mostly flat from the parking area—minimal effort before climbing.
Start early or late in the day to avoid strong midday sun and enjoy softer shadows on the rock.
Focus on the first moves; they require patience to avoid over-gripping.
Check your quickdraws and clipping technique for efficiency on the compact route.
Four bolts anchor the climb reliably; bring a standard sport rack and prepare for a Mussy hook anchor at the top.
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