Great Wall of China - Owens River Gorge Climbing Guide

Bishop, California
sport climbing
polished holds
morning shade
afternoon sun
single pitch
approach hike
accessible
Owens River Gorge
Length: up to 100 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Great Wall of China in Owens River Gorge is a dynamic climbing destination offering an expansive variety of routes from moderate 5.8’s to challenging 5.13’s. With morning shade and full afternoon sun, its broad bench base makes a welcoming spot for rest and regrouping."

Great Wall of China - Owens River Gorge Climbing Guide

Perched at 5,475 feet in the Eastern Sierra’s Owens River Gorge, the Great Wall of China presents one of the most active and varied climbing scenes in the area. Unlike quieter sectors nearby, this wall commands attention with its dense collection of routes and vibrant climbing culture. Whether you arrive early to savor the quiet morning shade or settle in under the warming sun of afternoon, you’ll find a wide, level bench at the base perfect for regrouping and relaxing alongside fellow climbers and their canine companions.

Navigating the wall, climbers encounter a spectrum of challenges predominantly concentrated around the 5.8 and 5.9 grades—frequently trafficked and well-polished from years of repeated ascents. However, this popularity has not sacrificed quality in the tougher routes. The Great Wall also features hard earners in the 5.10 and 5.11 ranges that continue to test technique and endurance. For those drawn to the premium edge of difficulty, there are several 5.13 routes notable for their quality and commitment.

Expect a climbing environment that prioritizes community alongside the challenge. The Base Bench offers an accessible gathering place that balances comfort with practicality—a place where climbers can prep, swap beta, or simply enjoy the natural beauty of the gorge’s rocky amphitheater. A small but essential amenity is the outhouse located a bit upstream across the river, providing a practical solution to sanitation needs.

The approach itself is straightforward by Owens River Gorge standards. The Central Gully route is the most recommended, starting from the CG parking lot. It’s a relatively gentle 20-minute trek over well-maintained terrain, consistently accessible and offering just enough exposure to prepare climbers physically and mentally before they reach the wall.

Climbing at the Great Wall focuses primarily on sport routes, demanding well-rounded skills and a confident rack of protection. While the rock type is not specified, the area’s polished nature and route variety indicate that climbers should prepare for varied holds and potentially slick sections on the busier, lower-difficulty routes. Make sure to bring a diverse rack, particularly if planning to push into the 5.11s and beyond.

Some notable classic climbs to explore here include the engaging China Doll (5.9), Yellow Peril (5.10c, 4.5 stars), and the stunning Aurora (5.13a), one of the few routes labeled as a potential standout classic in this area. Other standout routes that consistently impress with their difficulty and quality are Wrath of Khan (extension) and Tsunami, both rated 5.11b to 5.11c with 4.5 stars, alongside Yellow Streak and Borealis at 5.13a. These climbs offer opportunity across a spectrum of skill levels and are ready to challenge climbers seeking rewarding, high-quality ascents.

Access these routes responsibly—note that bridges crossing the river have been removed due to liability issues, and ongoing negotiations are underway to resolve access. It’s vital to respect closures, find alternate crossings if needed, and leave no trace while enjoying this treasured climbing corridor. Parking off paved areas and being conscientious of local land stewardship rules helps ensure the long-term preservation of access for everyone.

Weather in the Owens River Gorge provides a favorable climbing window most of the year with temperate highs and lows that lean toward spring through fall. The Great Wall’s east-west orientation means morning shade cushions the cooler hours, while afternoon sun fully warms the slabs and vertical faces, creating a balanced experience across the day.

After your climb, descents are typically straightforward with walk-offs, though some routes may require careful downclimbing or a rappel. Always double-check top anchors and bring necessary gear for safe retreat.

The Owens River Gorge remains a prime destination for climbers looking for a blend of quantity and quality in their outdoor experience. The Great Wall of China sector stands out not only for its depth of routes but also for the practical amenities and scenic beauty, making it an ideal stop for both first-timers and seasoned climbers eager for a well-rounded day in the mountains.

Climber Safety

Be aware that polished lower-grade routes can be slick and require careful footwork. Bridges across the river are currently closed, so plan crossings carefully to avoid unsafe river crossings. Always check anchors before rappelling or downclimbing. Weather can change quickly; carry enough water and sun protection for exposure during afternoon climbs.

Area Details

TypeSport
Pitchessingle pitch
Lengthup to 100 feet

Local Tips

Use the Central Gully approach from the CG parking lot for a 20-minute access hike.

Pack out all trash and dog waste; there are no trash services on site.

Respect current bridge closures and find alternate safe crossings.

Use the available outhouse upstream to maintain the area's cleanliness.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The Great Wall area primarily features a heavy concentration of 5.8 and 5.9 climbs that see frequent traffic, causing noticeable polishing on holds. This can make these grades feel slick but not necessarily harder. The stronger 5.10 and 5.11 routes maintain solid quality and present genuine challenges without being sandbagged. The upper-grade 5.13 climbs here hold a reputation for being tested and demanding climbs, suited for confident advanced climbers. Compared to other Owens River Gorge sectors, the Great Wall blends approachable moderate routes with quality hard sport climbs.

Gear Requirements

Approach from Central Gully parking lot is about 20 minutes on well-maintained terrain. An outhouse is available a little upstream and across the river. Respect ongoing bridge closures due to LADWP negotiations. Routes focus on sport climbing with polished 5.8 and 5.9 climbs and harder 10s and 11s. Bring a rack suited for sport routes and be prepared for some polished holds.

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Tags

sport climbing
polished holds
morning shade
afternoon sun
single pitch
approach hike
accessible
Owens River Gorge