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Foolproof Plan Trad Climb in Kings Canyon

Fresno, California United States
trad
multipitch
crack climbing
corner
rappel
granite
undercling
bolt crux
California
Length: 300 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Foolproof Plan
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Foolproof Plan provides a classic 5.9 trad challenge in Kings Canyon, blending technical crack and corner climbing with a memorable undercling crux. Its accessible approach and inviting ledges make it a must-try for climbers wanting a solid multipitch adventure amidst California’s wilderness."

Foolproof Plan Trad Climb in Kings Canyon

Foolproof Plan offers a solid and straightforward trad climbing experience along the rugged walls of Kings Canyon within Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park. Stretching over 300 feet and broken into three pitches, this route challenges climbers to navigate a diverse mix of cracks, flakes, and technical moves set against a dramatic granite backdrop. The climb begins with a move up an exposed flake, quickly transitioning to a key crux where a bolt punctuates the route at about 20 feet. This section demands focused footwork and precise hand placements to pass efficiently before reaching the first anchor.

The second pitch shifts gears to a corner system, providing clean, featured climbing that rewards those prepared with cams up to #4 Camalot. The corner widens as you ascend, leading to a comfortable belay ledge that serves as a natural rest point and stunning lookout over the canyon below. From here, the final pitch tests endurance and technique on a wide crack, culminating in a dynamic undercling move beneath a roof. This move echoes the style found on Commitment in Yosemite, requiring body tension and calculated effort to surmount before arriving at another spacious ledge to set up the final anchor.

Protection follows a traditional rack approach, emphasizing solid placements over fixed hardware, with optional bolt aid limited to that one crux. Plan your gear accordingly, focusing on cams that lock well in flares and parallel cracks, especially larger sizes for the corner pitch. After topping out, rappelling down the route is straightforward but warrants extra webbing to secure backups at the anchors, ensuring safety on the descent.

The setting of Kings Canyon infuses this climb with a tangible sense of wilderness. Granite walls rise sharply against the backdrop of towering pines, and the cool canyon breezes offer welcome relief during sunny days. The approach through forest trails is moderate and well-defined, making the climb accessible to seasoned trad climbers looking for a reliable multipitch adventure without a technical approach.

Seasonally, springs and early fall provide the best conditions—cool air with minimal crowds. Summer afternoons bring heat to the sun-exposed wall, so early starts are recommended. Footwear with sticky rubber and precise edging capabilities will serve well on the varied granite features. Stay hydrated, and be prepared for occasional loose blocks near the base.

Foolproof Plan is an ideal climb for those seeking a balanced trad outing: enough technical diversity to engage your skills without overcomplicating gear or route finding. The route’s natural ledges offer points to pause and soak in the vast canyon views, connecting you with one of California’s most iconic wilderness areas. Whether you’re ticking a new 5.9 on your log or simply pursuing a day of quality climbing in serene surroundings, this route delivers on both challenge and scenic impact.

Climber Safety

The anchors require extra webbing for reliable backups, and loose rock may be present near the base and approach. Helmets are strongly recommended. Rappelling conditions depend on secure gear placements—double-check before descending.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length300 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the sun-facing wall.

Bring cams sized up to #4 for the wide corner pitch.

Check your webbing and rappel gear—extra backups improve safety on descent.

Watch for loose rock near the approach; wear a helmet.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels well-placed, with a moderately stiff crux at the bolt in the first pitch that demands precision. The final pitch’s undercling move adds a physical crux, ramping up the effort compared to easier 5.9s. Compared to local classics, Foolproof Plan offers a reliable but rewarding challenge without pushing to 5.10 difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack to a #4 Camalot covers this climb’s needs. Expect to place cams in parallel cracks and corners; bring extra webbing to back up anchors for a secure rappel.

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Tags

trad
multipitch
crack climbing
corner
rappel
granite
undercling
bolt crux
California