Mt. Francis Farquhar Climbing Guide: Remote Sierra Peak with Classic Lines

Cedar Grove, California
high elevation
multi-pitch
classic climb
remote approach
alpine trad
camping nearby
Bubbs Creek views
Length: 300+ ft
Type: Trad | Alpine
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
High Sierra Wilderness
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Mount Francis Farquhar, a remote High Sierra peak, offers climbers a blend of rugged approach, serene camping near Sphinx Lake, and classic lines like the Bob Burd Staircase. Ideal for those seeking solitude paired with spectacular alpine views."

Mt. Francis Farquhar Climbing Guide: Remote Sierra Peak with Classic Lines

Mt. Francis Farquhar stands proudly within California’s High Sierra as a quiet sentinel of adventure. This peak, part of the Brewer Group, invites climbers and hikers into a realm far from the crowds, where the Bubbs Creek drainage unfolds like a rugged panorama beneath a summit that touches 12,893 feet. Named for Sierra mountaineer Francis Farquhar, this mountain embodies the spirit of exploration and the deep personal rewards drawn from high country ascents.

The approach to Mt. Francis Farquhar demands both focus and stamina. Starting at Road's End near Cedar Grove, adventurers head east along the Bubbs Creek Trail before branching onto the challenging Sphinx Creek Trail. This section tests hearts and legs—exhausting but rewarding, the path climbs relentlessly before it frees you to veer south toward the tranquil lower Sphinx Lake. Here, camping feels like a rare privilege—peaceful, isolated, and a perfect base to savor the wilderness away from the bustle.

Ascending the west face, climbers experience the mountain in its raw form. The quality of the rock and the relative solitude of the routes enhance the feeling of standing in a place carved by time and effort rather than crowds. While there are only a handful of established routes, the highlight for many is the Bob Burd Staircase, boasting a solid 4.5-star reputation. This route draws praise for its classic rock climbing experience—straightforward yet satisfying, rooted deeply in the traditions of alpine Sierra climbing.

Mt. Farquhar’s setting in the High Sierra places it in a protected zone of impressive natural beauty, offering views that command attention. From the summit, the Bubbs Creek drainage reveals a rugged landscape etched by glaciers and fire, making every moment on the peak both a visual reward and a meditative pause.

For planning your trip, be ready for weather fluctuations typical of the Sierra Nevada. Clear summer days provide ideal climbing conditions, though sudden changes remain a possibility at this altitude. West entry permits are mandatory to access the area, so securing your permit ahead of time is essential to avoid surprises.

The rock here demands respect. While the description doesn’t spell out specific rating ranges beyond the Bob Burd Staircase climb, the overall impression suggests moderate alpine climbs that reward prepared and cautious climbers. The terrain involves variable trail conditions and cross-country sections, so sturdy boots and good navigation skills are musts.

In summary, Mt. Francis Farquhar presents an opportunity to step into the quiet grandeur of the Sierra. It is a place where the rewards of solitude and serious mountain air pair with classic routes that honor the legacy of generations of climbers. Whether you’re drawn by the promise of a challenging approach or the chance to stand alone above a sweeping wilderness, this peak offers a singular Sierra experience that remains fresh, authentic, and deeply rewarding.

Climber Safety

The approach involves a taxing uphill hike with some route-finding challenges on faint trails and cross-country sections near Sphinx Lake; be prepared for sudden weather changes and carry adequate navigation aids. Rock quality is consistent with alpine Sierra granite but always use caution on exposed sections.

Area Details

TypeTrad | Alpine
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length300+ feet

Local Tips

Secure your West Entry permit in advance to avoid access issues.

Prepare for the tough Sphinx Creek Trail with sufficient water and snacks.

Camp at lower Sphinx Lake for a peaceful, less crowded base.

Start early in summer months to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common at high elevations.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The climbs on Mt. Francis Farquhar lean toward moderate trad and alpine grades, with the Bob Burd Staircase being a standout rated around 5.8. The area does not have a broad range of routes, but the existing climbs are respected for their quality and classic Sierra feel. Comparatively, the grading here aligns with typical High Sierra moderate alpine routes, generally straightforward for those with solid trad skills, without the reputation of being sandbagged or overly stiff.

Gear Requirements

Routes on Mt. Francis Farquhar approach from the west face. Access requires a strenuous hike, including cross-country travel near lower Sphinx Lake. West entry permits are required for this area.

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Tags

high elevation
multi-pitch
classic climb
remote approach
alpine trad
camping nearby
Bubbs Creek views