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First Strike: A Classic Warm-Up on Matchstick Pillar

Fresno, California United States
hand crack
face climbing
single pitch
beginner trad
sun exposure
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
First Strike
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"First Strike is an ideal single-pitch warm-up on the granite of Matchstick Pillar. With a bold hand crack start easing into technical face climbing, it offers a balanced challenge to hone trad skills before moving deeper into the Incinerator area."

First Strike: A Classic Warm-Up on Matchstick Pillar

At the edge of Shuteye Ridge, First Strike offers a striking introduction to the Incinerator area’s granite walls, setting the tone for a day of trad climbing in Southern Sierra’s raw beauty. This single pitch route unfolds across 100 feet of vertical granite, starting with an inviting hand crack that immediately calls for solid placement skills and attention to detail. The crack is wide enough to challenge your protection strategy, demanding a measured approach with cams in the #3 to #0.5 range. As you climb, the crack tapers and finally fades, nudging you rightward toward the first bolt—an invitation to shift from crack climbing to face moves.

This crux moment requires a deft transition: stepping out of the crack onto the face means relying on precise footwork and balance rather than jamming. The hold textures here offer enough friction to support confident moves, but the exposure and gear spacing raise the stakes. Beyond the crux, the line curves right to thread through three more bolts before reaching the anchor — a reliable setup with rap rings for a safe descent. Stainless steel Petzl and Fixe bolts assure solid protection in this sun-soaked stretch, critical when the granite surface heats under midday light.

The approach to First Strike is straightforward, well marked by the Incinerator area’s informal path network, making it accessible for climbers eager to warm up on quality granite before tackling the longer, more committing lines nearby. The route’s moderate 5.8 difficulty is approachable but not without moments that will test your ability to move confidently between trad and bolted climbing. Expect steady granite, a handful of technical placements, and exposure that reminds you why this area continues to draw climbers looking for both challenge and flow.

Gear considerations center on a versatile rack capable of handling hand and finger cracks, with four bolts punctuating the line to supplement traditional cams. Climbing shoes with a sticky sole will enhance edge control on the face section, while attention to hydration and sun protection is key during warmer months, as the southern exposure of this wall leaves little shade. Early morning or late afternoon climbs provide the most comfortable conditions and softer granite temperatures.

First Strike channels climbing’s pure excitement: a brief but fulfilling sequence that sharpens your skills and primes your mindset for the day ahead. It’s a reminder that sometimes the best routes aren’t the longest or the most intimidating—they’re the ones that build confidence, hold your focus, and leave you craving more granite beneath your fingertips.

Climber Safety

While the bolts are reliable stainless steel hardware, pay close attention to gear placements in the initial hand crack which can be deceptive. The move off the crack onto the face demands focus; a fall here could pendulum if protection is insufficient or misjudged. The anchor is secure, but rappelling requires careful setup and attention to rope drag.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the afternoon heat on the south-facing wall.

Bring a full set of cams with emphasis on mid-sized pieces for the hand crack.

Wear shoes with strong edging ability for the face climb past the crux.

Hydrate well and pack sun protection as shade is limited on this route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels well calibrated with a particular crux as you transition off the crack onto the face. The bolt protects this move well, easing the mental challenge, but the combination of gear and technical footwork keeps it engaging. Compared to other beginner trad routes in the Southern Sierra, First Strike offers a slightly stiffer introduction through its hybrid crack-to-face style.

Gear Requirements

4 stainless steel bolts spaced thoughtfully along the route, combined with traditional gear needs focused on a #3, #0.75, and #0.5 cams. Anchor equipped with rap rings for straightforward rappel or lowering.

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Tags

hand crack
face climbing
single pitch
beginner trad
sun exposure